(English) Wines of the Week: Robert Weil & Giovanni Abrigo


Robert Weil 2002 Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Eiswein   97
Giovanni Abrigo 2021 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Garabei   91
by Ian D’Agata

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Robert Weil 2002 Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Eiswein                       97

Hard to put into words just how great this Eiswein is, but suffice it to say that even non-experts will have no trouble, upon just one quick sip, discerning the greatness that this wine is imbued with.

Luminous pale golden yellow-amber colour. Marmelady botrytis concentrates the aromas of canned peach, caramel, apple pie, honey, brown sugar, maple syrup, vanilla toffee and minerals. Then rich, viscous, dense and multilayered, with enamel-shattering acidity (14 g/L total acidity!) that is nonetheless harmonious and necessary to lift the ultra-sweet tropical and orchard fruit flavours on the long, suave, extremely chiseled and perfectly delineated back end. Like with all of Robert Weil’s greatest wines, there’s a mind-boggling level of purity and lightness of being to this wine that is really hard to describe and honestly rare to find in other world sweet wines. A magical Eiswein. Drinking window: 2022-2050.

Giovanni Abrigo 2021 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Garabei                       91

Readers may not be as aware of Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba as they might be of Dolcetto di Dogliani and of Dolcetto d’Alba, but in my experience, it is in fact  the Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba denomination that gives the most balanced, and often the best, Dolcetto wines of all. Giovanni Abrigo is a little-known producer based in Diano d’Alba that makes a bevy of lovely wines, including some very fine Barolos from the famous Ravera vineyard district (check out my Barolo report of last Friday, Barolo Releases part 2), none better than this lovely Dolcetto wine.

Lively purple-ruby. Fragrant, perfumed aromas and flavours of black cherry, blueberry, violet, vanilla, menthol and forest floor are bright and pure. Then juicy and fresh, with vibrant bounce on the palate and a clean floral finish that lingers nicely. Will prove spectacular with just about any pizza, tomato sauce pasta and hamburger you can think of. There’s lots of wine for the money here, so don’t miss out on this gorgeous, fun, easygoing, delicious, lip-smacking good wine. Drinking window: 2022-2025.


Ian D'Agata

赏源葡萄酒评论 Terroir Sense Wine Review主编
赏源风土研究院Terroir Sense Academy院长
知味 TasteSpirit 首席科学家

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。



Ian D'Agata