English
Ian D'Agata又到了每年的这个时候，会有这样一份榜单，涵盖过去十二个月中伊安·达加塔（Ian D’Agata）大师所品尝过的意大利葡萄酒中，特别令人难忘的那些。新的一年，赏源葡萄酒评论伊安·达加塔2023年度意大利百大葡萄酒榜单正式发布！
从2004年开始，他就一直在做这件事，首次出版是在现在已成经典的《达加塔和康帕里尼意大利葡萄酒指南》（D’Agata & Comparini Guida ai Migliori Vini d’Italia）。
这份年终酒单总是追求”相对”，而非”绝对“zui佳，将稍晚发布的”年度葡萄酒”榜单也是一样。因为追求绝对的话，一份意大利榜单很可能由至少80款巴巴莱斯科（Barbaresco）、巴罗洛（Barolo）、布鲁奈罗（Brunello）、宝格丽（Bolgheri）和阿玛罗尼（Amarone）葡萄酒组成，而几乎鲜有其他酒。这有什么意义呢？
相比之下，为读者在年末带来100 款（通常再多一些）左右，由于某种原因值得一试的好酒，更有意义！这些酒不一定是十分昂贵、著名，或很有收藏价值。如果有人觉得Grignolino或Zibibbo酿的葡萄酒不可能，也永远比不上巴罗洛或布鲁奈罗，那这份榜单的许多酒在“绝对“语境中甚至都排不到现在的位置。
但这种思维方式和看问题的角度并不完全正确。莫奈是比西斯莱和毕沙罗更重要、更有影响力的印象派画家吗？是的，当然。但莫奈一般的作品真的比毕沙罗和西斯莱经典的作品更好吗？并非如此。
葡萄酒也是如此。像Silvano Follador酿造的Prosecco，或Gregory Perucci在费莱恩（Felline）酿造的金粉黛（Zinfandel），就比大多数不怎么样的巴罗洛和布鲁奈罗要好得多，而意大利的葡萄园品质标准又向来欠缺。
因此：在”伊恩·达加塔 2023年度意大利葡萄酒”榜单中，所有酒必都是非常出色的佳酿，其次能很好地传达特定葡萄品种的细微差别，或某一风土、土壤、海拔、小气候，或历史与传统的特别之处。
简而言之，这些葡萄酒都有着重要的故事，同时又物超所值。是这份榜单的意义。
意大利葡萄酒的魅力就在于其多样性，和这种多样性能令人兴奋的程度。跟随这份榜单，您会发现Bellone、Lambrusco Montericco和苏苏马尼罗（Susumaniello）葡萄酒可以与珍藏巴巴莱斯科（Barbaresco Riserva）和宝格丽（Bolgheri）的葡萄酒一样，令人难忘。
评判标准
为了让大家更好地了解评判参数，以下是达加塔大师多年前撰写的一篇文章节选，时至今日，依然不改初心。
“当我品尝葡萄酒并为其打分时，我会从细节入手：酒标上的葡萄名称与瓶中的葡萄酒是否相符？这款酒是否符合其酿造年份的典型特点？这款酒是否真正代表了其所标识的产地？等等…要做到这些，不仅需要大量的知识储备，每年只品尝几十、几百款葡萄酒是不够的。“
2023年，伊安有四个多月的时间是在意大利，走访了一百多家酒庄，品的酒以数千记，工作节奏有时会变得非常疯狂，多少次不得不在凌晨三四点起床，只为那一天能完成评估一系列的葡萄酒。
2023年的意大利榜单，精心挑选了约130 款本年度尤为令人难忘的葡萄酒。
Last，伊安要说：”我希望您能从这份榜单中获得乐趣，不管同意或不同意我的观点。每当侍酒师、葡萄酒进口商、买家、食品饮料经理和其他葡萄酒专业人士，对我和几十年来在意大利葡萄酒上的奉献表示信任，使用我的评分，引用我的观点或其他可能时，我总是很感动。他们选择我，这是一种荣誉！”
谢谢！
完整介绍及酒评
本榜单的酒大多于2023 年上市，有些可能更早一些，基本在市场上仍有销售。如果您希望看到完整的品酒笔记，建议在赏源官方网站（terroirsense.com）中搜索，大多数葡萄酒都曾在不同时间、被不同主题的文章报道过。
赏源葡萄酒评论
伊安·达加塔年度意大利葡萄酒
Contrade di Taurasi/Cantina Lonardo 2016 Taurasi Coste 100
古老的葡萄藤和酿酒天赋可以带来既强劲又优雅的葡萄酒，但这种结合在任何纬度都不易达到。在我2023年品尝过的红酒中，很少能酒能像这一款这样，拥有如此深邃、质感和复杂的口感。如果您能有幸找到一瓶，品尝之后，一样会发现：这是一款不会被轻易忘记的葡萄酒。
Taurasi可以成为全世界，而不仅仅是意大利，尤为伟大的红酒之一，但它并不总是有机会展示其真正的实力。Aglianico这一葡萄确实是一高贵的品种，完全不需要去羡慕内比奥罗、赤霞珠、黑比诺和桑娇维塞那些。此外，Taurasi产区的风土条件多种多样，根据地区不同，每款酒都能表现出不同的风土特色。
Cantina Lonardi酒庄也被称为Contrade di Taurasi，在酿造出色的Taurasi葡萄酒方面有着悠久的历史。酒庄酿造的”普通”Taurasi 葡萄酒通常都非常出色，而且还有一款Taurasi Vigne d’Alto，就2016年份来说，与满分的Taurasi Coste这款相比也毫不逊色。
这家酒庄还有值得称赞并将被世界各地的葡萄酒爱好者永远铭记的一点是：他们复活了被遗忘已久的Roviello白葡萄品种，当地人称之为Grecomusc。这是意大利在二十世纪里不知为何曾被遗忘的一长串独特而高贵的本土酿酒葡萄中的一个。但正是像Cantina Lonardo这样的酒庄，帮助行业拨乱反正，让我们对此心存感激。
赏源葡萄酒评论
伊安·达加塔年度意大利酒庄
Tua Rita
Stefano Frascolla和他的家族是意大利葡萄酒界名副其实的典范。Alessio Planeta及其兄弟姐妹Francesca和Santi也是如此。这些人和他们的家族为意大利葡萄酒做出了巨大贡献。
可以说，在Frascolla加入他岳母Rita Tua的避暑山庄，并开始酿造一款又一款令人眼前一亮的葡萄酒之前，从来没有人听说过Suvereto地区的葡萄酒。如今，不仅是酒庄酿造的世界一流的 Redigaffi（世界十佳美乐葡萄酒之一）会好的让人无发表达。
酒庄的天赋异禀，也能酿造出真正优质、价格也更加合适的的科尼亚山谷（Val di Cornia）葡萄酒。正是通过他们的努力，这个产区获得了新生。Tua Rita 今年酿造的酒，买到任何一款都不会错。
Planeta
Planeta，以霞多丽等国际品种而闻名，这些酒无论在哪里销售，都能占据重要的市场份额。但 Planeta 对意大利葡萄酒的贡献在于，他们并没有固步自封，多年来，他们不断尝试不同的葡萄品种，并在一度被遗忘的地区进行投资。
西西里岛的东北部就是这样一个例子，凯撒大帝尤为喜欢的葡萄酒之一——Mamertino的故乡就在这里，酒庄在这里酿造美味的 Moscato di Noto/Noto Passito葡萄酒，这是西西里岛仅有的两个专门酿造白莫斯卡托（Moscato Bianco，而不是Zibibbo或Muscat of Alexandria）的子产区。
鉴于这些酒的产量微乎其微，因此很难为酒庄带来收益，但只要有像 Planeta 这样的重要品牌进驻该地区，为这些酒提供支持，就会引起人们对这一地区及其葡萄酒的关注。这也必然会让当地人有信心坚持下去，不是一厢情愿地认为明天会更好。
就试验而言，菲亚诺（Fiano）在西西里岛取得的巨大成功，已经为后世留下了不可磨灭的Planeta印记。2021年份的Cometa酒款是Planeta酒庄Fiano葡萄酿造的酒，不可方物。不过，2023 年Planeta发布的整个葡萄酒系列都与众不同：从Etna到 Frappato Vittoria 和 Cerasuolo di Vittoria 以及其他许多，都不应错过。
100 points
Contrade di Taurasi/Lonardo 2016 Taurasi Coste (Campania)
99
Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino (Piedmont)
98
Tua Rita Redigaffi 2021 Toscana Rosso (Tuscany)
Bruno Giacosa 2019 Barbaresco Rabajà (Piedmont)
Quintarelli 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto)
97
Aldo Conterno 2019 Barolo Bussia Romirasco (Piedmont)
Fontanavecchia 2018 Aglianico del Taburno Riserva Vigna Cataratte (Campania)
Gravner 2013 Ribolla Venezia Giulia (FVG)
Masi 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Campolongo di Torbe (Veneto)
Miani 2020 Ribolla Gialla Pettarin Friuli Colli Orientali (FVG)
96
Argiano 2019 Solengo Toscana (Tuscany)
Arnaldo Rivera 2019 Barolo Cannubi(Piedmont)
Benanti 2018 Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore (Sicily)
Diego Morra 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno(Piedmont)
Donnafugata 2019 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé (Sicily)
Fattoria La Rivolta 2022 Coda di Volpe Sannio (Campania)
Giuseppe Cortese 2016 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva (Piedmont)
Marchesi di Gresy 2016 Camp Gros Martinenga Barbaresco Riserva (Piedmont)
Radikon 2018 Jakot Venezia Giulia (FVG)
Roagna 2017 Barbaresco Montefico (Piedmont)
95
Antano Milziade 2017 Sagrantino Passito (Umbria)
Berlucchi 61 2016 Franciacorta Nature Blanc de Blancs (Lombardy)
Ca’ del Bosco 2013 Franciacorta Riserva Annamaria Clementi (Lombardy)
Capezzana 2019 Villa di Capezzana Carmignano (Tuscany)
Castello di Ama 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Bellavista (Tuscany)
Castiglion del Bosco 2016 Zodiac Rabbit Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany)
Contrada Salandra 2020 Falanghina Campi Flegrei (Campania)
Di Prisco 2015 Taurasi (Campania)
Domini Castellare di Castellina 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale (Tuscany)
Elvio Cogno 2019 Barolo Ravera (Piedmont)
Emidio Pepe 2021 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo)
Felline 2028 Zinfandel Primitivo di Manduria (Puglia)
Ferrari 2012 Trento Extra Brut Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Trentino)
Fletcher 2020 Barbaresco Faset (Piedmont)
Grifalco 2021 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata)
Il Poggione 2018 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany)
Passopisciaro 2021 Contrada G Terre Siciliane (Sicily)
Tenuta di Trinoro 2020 Tenuta di Trinoro Toscana Rosso (Tuscany)
Tenuta San Guido 2020 Sassicaia Bolgheri Sassicaia 2020 (Tuscany)
Tiberio 2022 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo)
Viberti 2016 Barolo La Volta Riserva (Piedmont)
94
Albert Vevey 2021 Vino da Uve Stramature Blanc Flapì (Valle d’Aosta)
Alois Lageder 2019 Chardonnay Löwengang Alto Adige (Alto Adige)
Bocale 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria)
Brigaldara 2018 Cavolo Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto)
Bucci 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva Villa Bucci (Marche)
Canalicchio di Sopra 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli (Tuscany)
Colacicchi 2020 Torre Ercolana Lazio Rosso (Lazio)
Doro Princic 2021 Malvasia Collio (FVG)
Fattoria Selvapiana 2019 Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Erchi (Tuscany)
Feudo Montoni 2018 Nero d’Avola Vrucara Sicilia (Sicily)
Fratelli Alessandria 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno (Piedmont)
Frescobaldi Tenuta Castel Giocondo 2017 Ripe al Convento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany)
G.B. Burlotto 2022 Verduno Pelaverga (Piedmont)
Gianpaolo Colutta 2019 Tazzelenghe Friuli Colli Orientali (FVG)
Giovanni Sordo 2019 Barolo Monprivato (Piedmont)
La Contrada di Sorano 2019 Barolo (Piedmont)
Luigi Einaudi 2019 Barolo Cannubi (Piedmont)
Lungarotti 2018 Rubesco Torgiano Rosso Riserva Vigna Monticchio (Umbria)
Maeli 2016 Moscato Fior d’Arancio Diloro Colli Euganei Vino Passito (Veneto)
Marcarini 2019 Barolo del Comune di La Morra (Piedmont)
Mauro Molino 2019 Barolo La Serra (Piedmont)
Montevetrano 2020 Montevetrano Colli di Salerno Campania (Campania)
Piero Brunet 2022 Blanc de Morgex et La Salle (Valle d’Aosta)
Planeta 2021 Cometa Menfi (Sicily)
Poderi Gianni Gagliardo 2019 Barolo Lazzarito Vigna Preve (Piedmont)
Santadi 2020 Rocca Rubia Carignano del Sulcis Riserva (Sardinia)
Sartarelli 2020 Balciana Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche)
Sesta di Sopra 2018 Magistra Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany)
Silvano Follador 2022 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Brut (Veneto)
Tamburino Sardo 2021 Custoza Adriano (Veneto)
Tedeschi 2015 La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva (Veneto)
Tenuta Santa Maria 2020 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto)
Venissa 2019 Venusa Bianco Veneto (Veneto)
Vinzas Arzas 2020 Ghirada Garaunele 1920 Rosso Barbagia (Sardinia)
93
Antonio Mele 2022 Granatza Cuculia Barbagia Bianco (Sardinia)
Barone Pizzini NV Golf 1927 Franciacorta Brut (Lombardy)
Buglioni 2019 Il Narcisista Recioto Valpolicella Classico (Veneto)
Casato1922 2020 Garganega Sassi Mori Verona (Veneto)
Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et La Salle 2016 Blanc de Morgex et La Salle Metodo Classico Brut Nature Cuvée du Prince (Valle d’Aosta)
Crivelli 2022 Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (Piedmont)
Di Barrò 2022 Mayolet Vallée d’Aosta (Valle d’Aosta)
Gian Luca Colombo-Segni di Langa 2022 Verduno Pelaverga (Piedmont)
La Montagnetta 2021 L’Altra Freisa d’Asti (Piedmont)
Primosic 2018 Ribolla Gialla Riserva Collio (FVG)
Malvirà 2019 Roero Arneis Renesio (Piedmont)
Marchesi di Barolo 2018 Barolo Sarmassa (Piedmont)
Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta 2021 Grignolino d’Asti (Piedmont)
Montecappone 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva Utopia (Marche)
Paolo Saracco 2022 Moscato d’Asti (Piedmont)
Podere Sabbioni 2021 Ribona della Famiglia Colli Maceratesi (Marche)
SorPasso 2020 Carema (Piedmont)
Speri 2021 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore (Veneto)
Tenuta Garetto 2021 Grignolino d’Asti Giassa’ (Piedmont)
Tommasi 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto)
92
Argiolas 2022 Nasco di Cagliari Iselis (Sardinia)
Castello di Verduno 2022 Verduno Pelaverga (Piedmont)
Ettore Germano 2016 Alta Langa Blanc de Blancs Riserva Pas Dosé (Piedmont)
Fantinel Tenuta Sant’ Helena 2021 Pinot Bianco Collio Bianco (FVG)
Feudi del Pisciotto 2020 Nero d’Avola Versace Terre Siciliane (Sicily)
Gralò 2016 Franciacorta Brut Satèn (Lombardy)
Mertzeoro 2021 Cannonau Ghirada Baduorane Barbagia Rosso (Sardinia)
Nino Franco 2021 Primo Franco Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto)
Pasqua 2018 Famiglia Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto)
Pietraventosa 2021 Primitivo Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle (Puglia)
Ridolfi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany)
Tasi 2019 Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto)
Tenuta del Travale 2022 Nerello Cappuccio Rosato Epicarma (Calabria)
Tenuta Pradase -Valdo 2019 Prosecco Superiore Brut Metodo Classico (Veneto)
Villa Sandi 2021 Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Brut Vigna La Rivetta (Veneto)
Villa Canestrari 2020 Phanos Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto)
Vinisola 2021 Zibibbo Zefiro Pantelleria Bianco Secco (Sicily)
91
CasalFarneto 2022 Rosae Lacrima di Morro d’Alba (Marche)
Casali 2022 Pra di Bosso Lambrusco Reggiano (Emilia Romagna)
Colle Manora 2020 Albarossa Ray Piemonte (Piedmont)
Folonari Tenute 2019 Baia al Vento Bolgheri Superiore (Sardinia)
Francesco Cadinu 2020 Ghirada Fittiloghe Cannonau di Sardegna (Sardinia)
Il Palagio di Panzano 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Palagio di Panzano (Tuscany)
Marramiero 2021 Altare Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo)
Mevante 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria)
Osvaldo Soddu 2020 Brulleri Cannonau Di Sardegna (Sardinia)
Parco dei Monaci 2019 Spaccasassi Moro Matera (Basilicata)
90
Apollonio 2020 Mani Del Sud Salice Salentino (Puglia)
Pievalta 2020 Dominè Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche)
Carlo Gnavi 2020 Caluso Vigna Crava (Piedmont)
Il Casale Della Regina 2021 Lecinaro Frusinate (Lazio)
Mustazzavini 2022 Grillo Quasale Sicilia (Sicily)
Commenda Magistrale Primitivo del Salento Racemus (Puglia)
Le Strette 2021 Nascetta di Novello Pasinot (Piedmont)
Dear Mr. d’Agata (maybe this thoughts are for you personally and not to share with the whole web:)
Congratulations on your 100 best Italian wines 2023, excellent selection. But above all I liked your preamble! The 100-point scale has bothered me for years, as it has serious flaws. Example: I’m a big fan of Vernatsch wines, and they have to be fruity, light, with a pleasant bitter almond note. However, because of the mainstream, some winemakers have started to over-power their wines in order to get more points. What a shame! And suddenly Amarone producers are now trying to make their wines light and fruity because wines are no longer allowed to be opulent. If I’m looking for something heavy, then I like Amarone, if something light, then Valpolicella/Vernatsch. And none of this fits into ONE scale! That’s why I made an attempt on my own years ago (never shared):
MY SCALE
1) There are 12 categories of wines: 1) light red wines, 2) full-bodied heavy 3) with appasimento/(heavy reads with rs) 4) fresh white wines without residual sweetness 5) with residual sweetness 6) full-bodied white wines without residual sweetness 7) with residual sweetness 8) red sweet wines 9) white sweet wines 10) fresh bubblers 11) full-bodied bubblers 12) rosati.
2. appellation and grape variety are known BEFORE the blind tasting and the classification into 1) -12) is determined (either by the winery or in advance by the taster).
3. then the blind tasting takes place with the background information from 2. 80 points are available, which are awarded in the following categories: Nose/aromatic breadth/complexitiy/length/food friendliness, drinkability/terroir and varietal typicity (20 points)/coherence and “faults”
4. the last 20 points are again open/non-blind: ecological and social assessment of the winery (10) and value for money (10).
5. The 10 Points split in 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 points.
For example, a wine for 3000 dollars would never receive more than 92 points, whereas a perfect Vernatsch from an organic winery could achieve 98-100 points (in its category).
I know, that’s relatively radical. What do you think?
Thanks again for all the knowledge you share with us.
Nickname Cayas ( –> a super Syrah from the Valais), from Switzerland (wine fan for over 30 years, especially Italy!, teacher of philosophy and German literature)
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Very interesting take on scoring!
Have to agree with your assessment of Amarone. I went to a walk around tasting last year and was quite disappointed. I love a deep, rich, opulent Amarone. If I want something lighter, I’ll go to a Ripasso or Valpolicella Superiore.
Agreed, I’m a big fan of richer Amarones, lighter Valpolicellas and Ripassos in the middle road. My pet peeve is Valpolicellas that are degerated into being something they are not. Happy holidays!
interesting take! You know, nothing in life is perfect, so neither are scoring systems. We just use what works for each of us, and hopefully allows us to have even more fun we with wine. Cheers, happy holidays!
Of your annual “list” we always appreciate the rare humility with which you explain how it is conceived and your NON-claim to express absolute values.
We will try to make the most of it and also try some of the little-known labels that you have the merit of bringing to the fore.
Thanks Bands and congratulations for the great wines at Donnafugata!