(English) Wines of the Week: Domaine Huet & Bovio


Domaine Huet 1989 Vouvray Cuvée Constance  99
Bovio 2018 Barolo Gattera 93
by Ian D’Agata

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Domaine Huet 1989 Vouvray Cuvée Constance                                99

Simply put, the Domaine Huet 1989 Vouvray Cuvée Constance is one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. A magical result obtained by the just as magical combination of vintage, terroir and grape variety, this late harvest noble rot-affected Chenin Blanc is everything truly great wine ought to be about.

Deep, luminous yellow-gold colour. Captivating aromas and flavours of honey, orchard fruit, beeswax, lemon curd, tangerine jelly, mango, and guava all complicated by loads (and loads) of marmelady botrytis. Multi-layered, dense and utterly seamless, with a magnificent acid-sugar balance that really extends the flavours on the long suave back end which features smoky nuances of noble rot. A monumental wine that belongs in  a hypothetical list of the 100 greatest wines ever made, I’m probably being stingy by not scoring this 100. This is how good the wine is. From a selection of vines in the Le Mont cru. My drinking window is only an estimate of optimal drinking possibilities, but this is one wine that will prove virtually ageless. Drinking window: 2022-2045.

Bovio 2018 Barolo Gattera                                                     93

The Bovio 2018 Barolo Gattera is a very good example of what a talented producer could come up with in a challenging vintage like 2018. No gumminess, no excess savoriness or saltpeteriness here, just pure, unadulterated red fruit.

Bright red. Inviting nose offers red cherry, violet, minerals and sweet spices. Then juicy and lively but with sneaky concentration to its red berry and red cherry and herbal nuances, finishing long with a rising violet note and seamless tannins. Not the most concentrated Barolo you will ever drink as was typical of the 2018 vintage, but this has lovely balance and length. Well done. Drinking window: 2024-2033.

Editor’s note: I forgot to include this wine in my annual Barolo releases article, so it has since been inserted in that article as well.



Ian D'Agata

赏源葡萄酒评论 Terroir Sense Wine Review主编
赏源风土研究院Terroir Sense Academy院长
知味 TasteSpirit 首席科学家

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。



Ian D'Agata