阿布鲁佐及莫利塞产区:风格变化、品质提升

伊安详细介绍了阿布鲁佐Abruzzo)和莫利塞(Molise)产区,并推荐最近年份,从平价到可陈年收藏的产区酒款。
Ian D’Agata著

阿布鲁佐(Abruzzo)和莫利塞(Molise)是两个相邻地区(较大的阿布鲁佐紧邻较小的莫利塞北部),因此它们常被一起讨论,实际却很不一样。这种差异也存在于各自的葡萄酒中。虽然阿布鲁佐产区主要酿造“三大”葡萄酒(Montepulciano d’AbruzzoTrebbiano d’Abruzzo和各种IGT Pecorino葡萄酒),但越来越多人将注意力放在那些重新被发掘的品种上,例如PasserinaCococciola。莫利塞产区有品种大杂烩的称号,这其中,当地红葡萄品种Tintilia,和同样是当地原生的白葡萄品种Cococciola,正试图证明自己。

虽然阿布鲁佐远不如托斯卡纳或西西里那样为外国游客和度假者所熟知,它却是意大利最美丽的地区之一,拥有众多国家、省级和区级公园,梦幻般的海滨风景和奢华的山区豪宅。食物也是意大利最有趣的,顶级食材很常见:比如,许多意大利著名白松露就来自这里(不是你可能想到的其他地方),世界上品质最高的藏红花之一也生长在阿布鲁佐。在很多方面,阿布鲁佐有潜力成为意大利最有趣的葡萄酒产区之一,它有从新鲜到适合陈年的白葡萄酒,美味可口的红葡萄酒。不幸的是,这种潜力并未得到充分发挥,典型原因是直到最近,整个地区还比较贫困。不过,有一些鼓舞人心的迹象出现,其中最令人欣喜的莫过于当下,一些酒庄开始酿造轻酒体、风味干净的新风格Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,以及新鲜、同样干净的白葡萄酒。毋庸置疑,新一代年轻种植师和酿酒师已经接管他们的家族庄园,并对该地区的葡萄酒生产产生非常积极的影响,说实话,变化从未如此显著。

可以说,曾经阿布鲁佐给人们的印象尽是些廉价白葡萄酒,和厚重的红葡萄酒,如今这一切都变了。佩科里诺(Pecorino)已经成为意大利最好的本土白葡萄品种之一,它有潜力酿造出具柠檬风味、高酸度、强劲酒体的白葡萄酒,香气和口感就像长相思和优质灰皮诺的理想杂交后代一样,已经得到意大利国内外所有人的认可。忘掉那些非典型的香蕉菠萝混合物,专注于佩科里诺葡萄酒,当一款酒感觉像是长相思,但更有力量、风味更丰富,同时香气不那么刺鼻时,那就是一款非常好的佩科里诺葡萄酒。Trebbiano d’Abruzzo也从没这么优秀过,现在,终于有除ValentiniTiberio两家以外,还可以赞美的酒庄。我写过很多次,Trebbiano Abruzzo葡萄能酿出那些可笑的热带水果炸弹风葡萄酒,但高品质的酒于此毫无关联,而是那些有微妙草本植物、细微矿物感的葡萄酒,能令人想起优秀的夏布利葡萄酒。此外不要忘记PasserinaCococciola,这两种白葡萄应该得到越来越多的关注和照料:它们似乎都能酿出非常有趣的新鲜白葡萄酒,远超它们长期以来,给人一贯的中性白葡萄酒印象。最后,但最重要的是,请记住,阿布鲁佐很有可能酿出意大利最好的桃红酒(著名的Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo,比人们尝试过的大多数桃红酒颜色更深、口感更丰富),再不济也能与普利亚的萨兰托地区并列“最佳”。

莫利塞也开始走出葡萄酒产业的低谷,越来越多生产商现在酿造非常好的Tintilia葡萄酒,这种红葡萄品种酿出的葡萄酒有点像西拉和歌海娜混合的味道。Cococciola在这里也很有前途。但是长相思和雷司令,种植在更高海拔、有更凉爽气候下(尽管这样种植有背后的逻辑),酿制的葡萄酒还没表现出特别令人钦佩的样子,不过它们至少表现出有趣的一面。采用其他产区的品种菲亚诺(Fiano)和法兰吉纳(Falanghina)等酿制的葡萄酒,在莫利塞根本没有立足之地,种植它们主要还是因为名字好认。

最近年份

2019年份,多雪的冬季和春天,使土壤得以积攒水分储备。春天雨量相当大,而且一直持续到5月,这意味着开花推迟了两周,并在一定程度上被打乱,随之而来便是坐果不均。整个6月,在湿气压力下疾病高发,频繁的阵雨也是这时期的标志。相比之下,7月和8月干燥炎热。以至于像霞多丽和灰皮诺这样的早熟品种,最早在820日就能沿着海岸线采摘,内陆地区则在826日左右开始。大多数红葡萄品种在9月到10月的正常时间范围内采收。产量普遍高于2018年,不过总体质量非常高。

2018相比2017,至少还是一个不错的年份(2018年产量大约多了15%)。17年的问题是几乎没有降雨,十分干旱。18年发芽和开花都很顺利,但5、6、7,每个月初都有一些降雨,意味着霜霉病和白粉病对所有酒农都造成一定麻烦。最终葡萄酒的质量似乎不错,尽管可能比2019年在浓郁度上稍逊一筹。

2017作为阿布鲁佐十分困难的一年将永远被记住。开春前的冬天,下了过去一百年来最大的一场雪,紧接初春霜冻(幸运的是,寒冷的冬天和暴风雪造成开花期延迟,所以418日霜冻来临时,对葡萄树损害很小)和夏季热浪,35-39摄氏度的高温频繁出现。值得注意的是,热浪伴随干旱,基耶蒂南部地区甚至出现一次小冰雹,整个地区的年轻葡萄园都受到影响。事实上,早熟葡萄的采收在8月第一周就已经开始!总的来说,白葡萄酒缺乏一点酸度,有些红葡萄酒的品质会受到砂砾质感单宁的影响,幸好过去十年中,阿布鲁佐和莫利塞的酿酒和葡萄栽培技术已经得到很大提高,因此2017年仍可以找到很多非常好的葡萄酒。

本报告中的葡萄酒都是在过去十个月中,我曾居住的意大利和现在上海的办公室里品尝。

Tasting Notes and Scores

品鉴笔记及分数

Barone Cornacchia

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo  Casanova              90

Pale-medium yellow. Forward nose offers grapefruit, floral honey, and herbs. Broad, open-knit and quite fresh, showing more fruit than volume today. High-pitched citrus notes persist nicely on the lively if very easygoing, uncomplicated finish. Boasts serious size for a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wine, but without falling over the cliff into atypicality. Drinking window: now-2023

2019 Pecorino Controguerra  Casanova              88

Moderately saturated yellow color. Subtle aromas of citrus peel, herbs and white flowers, plus a whiplash of menthol. Supple and pliant, with balancing acidity nicely framing the reticent flavors of lime, apple and sage. Finishes nicely dry on the medium-long finish, but with a rising underlying green edge. Drinking window: now-2023

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casanova Bio              88

Deep ruby with purple tinges. Aromas and flavours of plums, coffee, leather and herbs. Sweet and plump on entry, then more austere in the middle, but the medium-long finish has a bitter note. I for one wasn’t thrilled with this bitter element, though I imagine some might appreciate it more than I; in any case, the wine is well-made and ripe, and not green. Drinking window: now-2024.

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Vigna Le Coste              92

Good full ruby. This is quite good. Clean, fresh and lively aromas and flavours remind of dark plums and cherry, tobacco, licorice and violet. The finish is long and juicy, with piercing, almost biting acidity that nicely extends the flavours on the long back end. For all its acidity, this has turned out quite harmonious. Drinking window: now-2026

2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Vizzarro bio              89

Saturated red-ruby. Subdued aromas of blackberry, raspberry, anise, violet and celery seed. Sweet and fruit-driven on entry, then rather tannic, but with good length to its textured dark fruit and herbal flavours. The rising mouth-coating tannins suggest this will benefit from a few more years in the cellar in the hope that the tannins resolve and are’ the sign of physiologic stress due to summer heat. Drinking window: 2024-2027

Cingilia

2019 Cococciola Colline Pescaresi              91+

Luminous pale yellow. Fresh lemony and saline nuances to the white flower and pear aromas and flavours. A hint of carbonic gas adds freshness on the long saline finish. Very lovely and fresh, this delightful wine goes down not by the glass but by the bucket.  Drinking window: now-2023

2019 Passerina Colline Pescaresi               92

Green-straw yellow. Vibrant, mineral-dominated nose evokes notes of fresh green apple, lime and talc. Then just as racy in the mouth, with flavours of apple and pear turning sweeter and riper with aeration, veering towards juicy yellow melon reminders. I like this wine’s balance of energy and depth: you can tell there is old vine-derived density here. Passerina is not at all typical of the Chieti area where the Cingilia estate’s vineyards are located, but owner Fabio Di Donato stumbled upon an old vineyard of Passerina and decided he couldn’t do without making a wine from it. Good for him, uprooting these old vines would have been bordering on the criminal. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Pecorino Colline Pescaresi              88

Gold-tinged straw yellow. High-toned aromas of soft citrus fruits, balsamic oils and marzipan. Supple and rich but a bit foursquare, even stunted today. Possesses the structure and size that ripe Pecorino grapes can deliver in spades but not much refinement presently. I’d cellar this for another year  to let it develop more nuance. Drinking window: 2023-2026

2019 Rosato Colline Pescaresi              89

Bright dark pink. Strawberry and fresh unripe red cherry nuances are complicated by pink flowers on the pretty nose. Then similar flavours to the aromas, with a medium-long suave finish. Perhaps just a little simple, and denoting a clever use of residual sugar, but it’s hard to argue with this wine’s up-front, delicious personality. Drinking window: now-2023

2018   Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              92

Moderately saturated deep ruby. Aromas and flavours of red cherry, dark plum, tar and violet. Harmonious acidity provides good clarity and cut on the long youthfully chewy finish. Strikes me as being much cleaner than the 2017. Currently a very good pizza and pasta wine, or steak and potatoes if you prefer, but I think a little more cellaring might help this gain more depth and size. A lovely wine that is a steal for the price, Cingilia is one of Italy’s up and coming wine estates and one that’s worth following closely. Drinking window: now-2022

Cirelli

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo La Collina biologica              90

Bright straw. Lemon, white flowers and herbs on the nose and in the mouth. Offers more texture than fruit flavour, finishing quite dry, but clean and nicely persistent. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo La Collina Biologica              88

Vivid deep straw yellow. Sweet apple and pear notes dominate on the nose. In the mouth, tastes more tannic and less fruity, leaving a clenched impression on the medium-long, dusty finish. Drinking window: now-2023

2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo La Collina biologica              92

Moderately saturated ruby. Perfumed nose combines blackberry, black cherry and spices, complemented by earth tones and tar. Juicy and spicy, with good vinosity and cut to the dark berry and spice flavors that persist nicely on the firm finish. Maybe not the last word in complexity, but this is lovely, and you’ll find you won’t want to put the glass back down when you start sipping (always a good sign, in my books). Drinking window: now-2027

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              91

Deep ruby with purple tinges. Woodsy underbrush, minerals and coffee complement the dark cherry and smoked plum aromas and flavours. Very typical Montepulciano wine that teeters dangerously close to falling over into animal notes, but stays clean, suave and juicy, with building, chewy but ripe tannins that ensure a likely good eight years of life ahead. Now I might very well be mistaken, but it seems to me like Cirelli has come up with some very impressive reds of late. Drinking window: now-2026

Contesa

2018 PecorinoAbruzzo Superiore Aspetta Primavera              90

Orange-tinged straw yellow. Lemon and butter on the nose, plus hints of sage, pineapple and spices. Juicy and fruit-driven, with a touch of sweetness, this fairly sizable Pecorino wine picks up a more herbal personality with aeration. The aftertaste is savory and persistent. Drinking window: now-2024

2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Terre dei Vestini Riserva Chiedi alla Polvere 91

Good full ruby. Clean and fresh bramble, dark berries, and tamarind dominate the nose and the mouth. Very smooth from entry to finish, with good harmonious acidity nicely supporting the ripe dark fruit and spice flavours. Really quite good. Drinking window: now-2026

Emidio Pepe

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo              94

Deep yellow. Knockout aromas and flavours of custard cream, lemon curd, pear and sweet herbs all nicely complicated by hints of butter and fresh herbs. Rich deep and suave, this is an absolutely lovely, serious Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Drinking window: now-2030

2018 Pecorino Coli Aprutini              89

Dark yellow. Aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear and chestnut honey. Enters big and chewy, with varietally accurate flavours of ripe pear and herbs, but finishes slightly bitter. This rather big-bodied wine really needs food to show best. I never cease to be amazed by how much Emidio Pepe’s white wines have improved over the last ten years, but the Pecorino is still the wine bringing up the rear at the estate more often than not.

2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo              95

I have said it once and I will say it again. The Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is Emidio Pepe’s best wine, and by far. Deep pink, it offers intense, deep aromas and flavours of red cherry, sweet spices and minty herbs, complicated by white and pink flowers, plus hints of marzipan and orange peel. Finishes long and suave, not to mention extremely pure and vibrant, without any of the funkiness that often affects the estate’s much-lauded Montepulciano wine. This deep, flavorful Cerasuolo is once again a simply great rosé wine that puts to shame the litany of insipid watery rosés that plague wine store shelves and wine lists everywhere. Drinking window: now-2025

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              94

Good deep ruby. Roasted, smoky aromas of black cherry, redcurrant and crushed herbs, with a liqueur-like nuance and a hint of complicating potpourri. Supple, lush and sweet, with good acid cut providing energy to the middle palate. This delightful Montepulciano finishes with sweet, youthfully chewy tannins and hints of coffee and tar. Made from the estate’s younger vines, this boasts plenty of stuffing to age but at the same time also plenty also of upfront appeal. Drinking window: now-2034.

Feuduccio

2019 Pecorino Colline Teatine Ursonia              90

Vivid straw yellow. Lime skin and iris on the nose. Bright, fresh and sweet on entry, then slightly hard-edged, turning firm but with the nicely dense orchard fruit and herbal flavours persisting nicely on the long suave finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Ursonia              88

Bright straw colour. Lemon, orange peel and sweet herbs on the nose. Cleanish and with a slightly off-dry quality, but only modest flesh to the apple and pear flavours. Could also use a bit more length. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Pecorino Colline Teatine Ursonia              89

Medium-dark straw yellow. Yellow fruits and herbs on the nose, lifted by a hint of grapefruit and kiwi. Ripe, sweet and broad, with decent delineation of its orchard fruit and sweet herb flavours. Finishes medium-long with spicy, dusty nuances. Drinking window: now-2025

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Fonte Venna              88

Good moderately deep ruby. Dried cherry, dark plum, toast and nuts on the nose. Juicy and dry, with modest texture and flesh to its flavours similar to the aromas. Finishes with decent length but really not much complexity. Drinking window: now-2024

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Feuduccio              87

Good full ruby. Ripe black and red fruit aromas and flavours. Fat and sweet on entry, then risingly tannic and harsh, with a smoky richness that persists on the long finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Ursonia              91

Deep opaque ruby. Dark cherry, smoky plum and pungent minerality on the nose. Then more mellow and subdued in the mouth, with very good sweetness and balance to the black cherry and mineral flavours. Spreads out impressively to smoothly coat the palate on the rising finish. Lovely Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that is good to go now but that will age another five-six years easy. Drinking window: now-2027

I Fauri

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Baldovino              90

Luminous straw colour. Aromas of apple, freshly cut hay and minerals. Clean, fresh and precise, offering classically dry, clean, good flavours of lemon, herbs and orchard fruit. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Passerina Colline Teatine              88

Medium-dark orange. Herbs and peach skin on the nose. Softly textured and ripe, with broad but short flavours reminiscent of the aromas. Slightly macerated, this is neither as fresh as a classically made white wine nor as deep and complex as some other wines kept long on the skins. I used to be a big fan of I Fauri’s Passerina, often finding it to be the estate’s best wine; but this strikes me as having undertaken a different course. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Pecorino Abruzzo              89

Medium dark yellow. Lemon, ginger and a faint lactic nuance on the nose. Supple and sweet, with decent concentration to the apple and herb flavours. Conveys a nicely pliant texture but not much depth or complexity. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Baldovino              89

Deep ruby. Initially quite reduced, but the animal notes blow off with aeration revealing red and dark cherry aromas and flavours that are nicely pure and persistent. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Ottobre Rosso               91

Good full, deep ruby. Aromas of black cherry and licorice, with a hint of reduction but that decanting ahead will resolve without difficulty. Sweet black cherry and tarry flavors are complicated by game, woodsy underbrush and smoke. Has a noteworthy underlying tannic spine but stays on the right side of smooth on the long finish. Drinking window: now-2027

Illuminati

2019 Pecorino Conroguerra              91

Pale yellow-gold. Expressive notes of fresh soft citrus scents, toast and herbs. Classically dry and fresh, with very good cut and freshness to its apple and lime flavours. For a basic Pecorino bottling, this boasts noteworthy power and precision. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Campirosa              90

Bright deep pink. Buttercups, pink roses, redcurrant and a whiff of wax the nose. Then juicy and pungent on the palate, with sour red cherry and vanilla flavors dominating. Offers good clarity and cut on the long slightly saline, juicy finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Lumeggio di Rosso              90

Good ruby-red. Dark cherry, plum, and spices on the nose. Round, lush and pliant in the mouth, with a soft, ripe red plum flavour and sweet tannins, not to mention very good freshness. Nicely persistent, this offers early pleasure and an easygoing personality that’s hard not to like. Drinking window: now-2025

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riparossa              90

Deep ruby. Herbs and tar on the nose complicate floral red berry aromas and flavours on the nose and in the mouth. Nicely dense and texture on the long fruity finish. Always a sure bet and a good buy, Riparossa comes through again in a slightly difficult vintage. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Ilico              88

Dark ruby. Bitter cherry, mint and herbs on the nose. Perfumed flavors of tart red and dark berries and a complicating note of eucalyptus. Not especially sweet but not tough either, but an underlying green streak detracts from this wine’s pleasurability. Drinking window: 2024-2027

2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Riserva Zanna          92
Moderately saturated bright medium ruby. Ripe but lively aromas of red cherry, blueberry and sweet oak. Floral and red berry flavors are sweet and fresh but with an inviting underlying creaminess nicely supported by a suave tannic spine. Sneaky depth and concentration on the long smooth lively finish. Drinking window: 2023-2027

2015 Controguerra Riserva Lumen              91

Opaque ruby. Ripe plum, smoke, minerals, flowers and coffee on the nose. Densely packed but a bit youthfully clenched, with black cherry, cocoa and licorice flavors complicated by a faint meaty quality. Finishes with substantial but polished tannins and a hint of botanical herbs. Drinking window: now-2028

La Valentina

2019 Pecorino Colline Pescaresi              89

Bright straw-yellow. Fresh aromas of apple and nectarine are complicated by herbs and honey. Easygoing and uncomplicated, with a hint of wild fennel and chamomile complementing the orchard fruit flavours. Finishes fresh but a bit short. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Spelt               91

Vibrant straw colour. Aromas of lime, menthol and pear. Expansive but cool in the mouth, with harmonious lemony acidity keeping the menthol and herb flavors under wraps. Hints at underlying depth and the creamy mouthfeel lingers nicely on the aftertaste. This improved with just a little aeration so open it at least a half hour ahead. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              91

Vivid red. High-pitched, floral aromas of fresh raspberry and dark cherry. Juicy, open-knit red fruit flavors show good precision and tangy flintiness. The floral note repeats on the lively finish. This is a lovely, easygoing Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that’s fun to drink. Well done.

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Spelt              87

Bright saturated ruby. High-toned aromas and flavours of black cherry, blueberry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Enters sweet, ripe and lush if a bit chunky, but then turns astringent in the middle and finishes with noteworthy bitterness. A big wine that will have its share of admirers, this will undoubtedly taste better with food that will help mask the grittiness of the tannins, a hallmark of many reds (and not just from Abruzzo).

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Bellovedere              92+

Deep red-ruby. Blueberry, blackberry, licorice, flowers and oaky spices on the nose. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, with good verve to the fleshy flavours of bitter chocolate, licorice and dark berries. The tannins coat the palate on the chunky finish. I think this will improve considerably with a little bottle age: well done. Drinking window: 2024-2029

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Binomio              89

Fully saturated purple-ruby. Aromas of blackberry, sweet spices, vanilla and balsamic oils are complicated by herbal and peppery nuances. Thick, dense and very ripe, with fleshy but ultimately straightforward flavors of medicinal dark fruits, cloves and woodsy underbrush. Stumbles on the back end, unleashing a note of cough medicine and a strong whiff of alcohol. By no means bad, but far too big and ripe for its own good, this ultimately palate-fatiguing wine that is in need of less size and more verve, though I am sure those who like their wines big and fleshy will think more of this than I. Drinking window: 2023-2027

Masciarelli

2019 Bianco Villa Gemma Colline Teatine              88

Good full yellow. Vivid lime notes lift the aromas of peach and ripe citrus fruit. Juicy and firmly built, with a saline nuance to the lemon and lime flavors. Finishes with good grip and ripe notes of orchard fruit. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Villa Gemma              93

Deep pink. Perfumed aromas and flavours of red cherry, redcurrant, violet, plus a complicating hint of woodsy underbrush. At once penetrating and luscious, lively acidity nicely extends the juicy fruit on the long back end which features a mounting bittersweet note. I have long thought that Masciarelli’s meaty but fresh Cerasuolo is the best wine in the Villa Gemma lineup, and this gorgeous Cerasuolo adds more evidence to my pile of proof. Absolutely delicious pink wine. Drinking window: now-2025

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva              88

Full yellow colour. Aromas of pineapple and spices are complemented by a floral topnote. Classically dry and verging-on-austere, with the spice and stone fruit flavours slightly drying on the dusty finish. I would have liked a little more sweetness of fruit. Drinking window: now-2024

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S.Martino Rosso              88

Good full purple-ruby. Big full wine on the nose and in the mouth, but for all its ripeness and sweetness, it ultimately strikes me as slightly charmless. And despite all that ripeness, it finishes very acidic on the medium-long finish. Undoubtedly, the 2017 vintage was a difficult one. Drinking window: now-2024

2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Villa Gemma              89

Bright deep ruby-purple. Ripe aromas of blackberry, loam, coffee and black olive. Deep and chewy and quite firmly built, but its solid tannic structure leaves an astringent, overly-tannic sensation on the thick back end. Drinking window: now-2026

Nicodemi

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Le Murate              88

Bright straw yellow. Aromas of orange, apple, and flowers. Tight and lean in the mouth, with slightly hard-edged acidity leaving this wine rather austere, but with aeration gains a little fat. Closes zesty and long. Drinking window: now-2023

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Superiore Notàri              90

Luminous yellow. Apricot, apple and a whiff of loam on the nose. Fresh apricot flavours are enlivened by juicy acidity and complicated by a suggestion of creamy egg custard on the medium-long finish. Rounder than the 2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Le Murate. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Le Murate              90

Deep ruby. Lively aromas and flavours of red fruit and herbs, lifted by a touch of violet. Easygoing and simple on the medium-long zesty finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Notàri              90

Moderately saturated ruby. Aromas and flavours of dark berries, earth and coffee. Finishes long and smooth with repeating notes of coffee; though not the last word in complexity, this boasts good overall sweetness.

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Riserva Neromoro              89+

Fully saturated ruby-purple. Sweet aromas and flavours of ripe dark fruit, sweet spices, and balsamic oils. Dominated today by sweet oak and relentless tannins, but there’s enough fruit here to have me hope that the tannins won’t win out in the end. Try cellaring for a couple of years and see if the oaky clasp resolves somewhat. Drinking window: 2024-2028

Strappelli

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Bio              88

Vivid straw colour. Slightly reticent on the nose, with hints of apple and pear. Youthfully imploded, but with good floral cut to the flavors of peach, apricot and cut grass. Finishes juicy, dry and medium-long, with a hint of earth. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Pecorino Controguerra Bio              89

Bright medium yellow Pungent aromas of nectarine, orange oil and spices. Then quite pliant and open-knit today, with easygoing, round flavours of nectarine, yellow peach and nutmeg emerging on the zingy finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Bio              87

Good full ruby-red. Brooding aromas of black cherry, coffee and bitter chocolate. Broad and sweet on entry, but turns slightly tough and backward on the palate, with a slightly austere and medicinal cast to the flavours of menthol and cocoa. Drinking window: now-2024

Terraviva

2019 Passerina Abruzzo 12.1              90

Pale bright yellow. Juicy and fruity on the nose and palate, hinting at ripe apricot, yellow apple, minerals and honey. In a rather sweet, soft style typical of the variety, with plenty of verve if not mind-blowing complexity. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo              92

Clear straw yellow. Very intense apple pie and bittersweet herbs complicate ripe orchard fruit on the nose and in the mouth. Smooth, multilayered and quite deep on the long finish. This is excellent. Drinking window: now-2025

2019 Pecorino Abruzzo              87

Orange-tinged colour. Strongly macerated aromas and flavours nullify the characteristics of the grape, leaving little interest in its earth, cider and herbs that are typical of all such macerated wines.

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Mario’s 46              88

Golden-tinged yellow. Then almost orange wine-like in its aroma and flavour profile, finishing bitingly tannic and medium-long. Those who like macerated wines will like this more than I, but this is too macerated for me.  Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Pecorino Abruzzo ‘Ekwo              91

Very good straw colour. Nicely intense and full-bodied, with lovely anise, menthol, and lemony aromas and flavours. Closes medium-long and slightly tannic. Drinking window: now-2024

Tiberio

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo              92

Delicate straw-green colour. Refined aromas and flavours of apple, pear and minty herbs are lifted by notes of white flowers. Long and lively on the minerally-accented finish, there’s sneaky concentration and lovely purity to this wine. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Pecorino Abruzzo              93

Medium-dark straw yellow. Sage, chamomile, rosemary and white peach dominate the nose. Then similar flavours in the mouth, with complicating hints of tangerine and orange cordial adding body. Closes long and fruity, but with a multilayered quality. This very successful wine smells and tastes like what an ideal mixture of Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc might taste like and is a real crowd pleaser. Drinking window: now-2026

2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Fonte Canale              95

Full straw yellow-with a green tinge. White peach, jasmine, lemon verbena, minerals and musk on the nose. Concentrated, sweet and deep but surprisingly open-knit today with flavours similar to the aromas. A building saline quality adds an element of interest to the lingering finish that features a strong note of lime. This seems approachable now but has the stuffing to age. Drinking window: 2023-2030

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              94

Bright ruby. Pungent, very penetrating but perfumed floral nuances complement decadent red cherry, plum and herbal aromas and flavours. Fresh and juicy, but with very good stuffing and smooth tannins providing support on the long, lively finish that features a rising, mildly aromatic note of varnish and pine cone. Ever since I tasted the 2018 Tiberio Montepulciano from tank I have been impressed by its perfume and sweetness; there is a decadent, super-ripe quality to its aromas and flavours that is not just intriguing (in that it is at once so atypical and rare) but also decadent without falling into the overripe or caricatural. In effect, some of that sultry sweetness has given way to more resiny, pine cone notes, but the overall olfactory profile is unique and almost Pinot Noir-like. The wine smells as if it were made with whole bunches or put through at least a partial carbonic maceration, and yet neither of those two techniques have been used here. Go figure: what can I say? Not much, except very well done. Drinking window: now-2026

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Archivio              96

Luminous deep ruby. Very expressive, complex and deep nose of smoky dark and red cherry fruit, sweet spices, flint and cocoa, but with the tell-tale Tiberio refinement. Then very smooth and creamy, but with a ripely penetrating quality to its multilayered dark fruit and sweet spice flavours: the oak here is not obtrusive at all but adds an extra dimension and another layer to the wine. The finish is long and suave. This is the first ever vintage of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Archivio, the Tiberio’s brand new Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that is a Riserva in everything but name. It is also the first wine the estate has ever aged in wood (30% of the wine is aged in French oak barriques, 33% of which are new), made with grapes picked from 65 years old Montepulciano vines growing in a specific 1.2 hectare section of a larger 2.5 hectare vineyard. These vines are of four different old Montepulciano biotypes that the brother and sister team of Antonio and Cristiana Tiberio have saved and nurtured over the years; this explains the wine’s name, archivio, or archive, that refers to what is in effect an archive of rare Montepulciano biotypes. Drinking window: now-2032

Torre dei Beati

2019 Pecorino Abruzzo Giocheremo con i Fiori              92

Deep bright straw yellow. Honeyed and rich, with good perfume and density to the apple and pear aromas and flavours. Closes long and fresh. This is quite good. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Pecorino Abruzzo Bianchi Grilli              89

Medium-dark straw yellow. Aromas and flavours of yellow flowers and ripe orchard fruit complicated by balsamic oils. Enters big but turns slightly candied and finishes short. Drinking window: now-2024

2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              91

Deep purple colour. Black cherry, smoke and loam on the lively nose. Round and smooth with slightly simple flavours of red cherry raspberry. This is very good for an entry-level wine but then again, Torre dei Beati has a real knack with the Montepulciano grape.

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cocciapazza              92

Deep opaque purple-ruby. Licorice, coffee and smoke aromas and flavours have a slightly sweaty nuance. Finishes long and youthfully chewy and a touch of alcohol-derived warmth. Drinking window: now-2028

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Mazzamurello               90

Fully opaque. Red cherry notes dominate the nose and the mouth. Enters sweet and smooth, but then turns very tannic, finishing with noteworthy alcohol warmth and a tannic peppery bite. Really needs food to show well; maybe a few years in the cellar will help this smoothen out, but right now this is very tough going. Drinking window: 2024-2029

Valle Reale

2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo              90

Deep purple. Flinty aromas and flavours of dark cherry and herbs. This is lovely, round and smooth, slightly simple with a slight touch of alcohol on the long refined lively finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vigneto Sant’Eusanio              93

Deep vibrant ruby. Complex aromas and flavours of dark berries, red cherry, violet, minerals and espresso coffee. Multilayered and deep, harmonious acidity really provides utmost clarity, cut and focus. Finishes very long, with bright floral lift and a strong saline edge. This is a really beautiful example of cool climate Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Drinking window: 2023-2029

2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vigneto di Popoli              93

Deep inky-ruby. Cool aromas of flint, blackcurrant, coffee and licorice. Smooth and light on its feet, with a steely quality to its blue and black fruit flavours nicely framed by zingy acidity and polished tannins. The long close repeats hints of flint and dark fruit, as well as of herbs. Very precise, clean, vibrant Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that shows the more refined side of the grape. Drinking window: 2024-2029

Valentini

2016 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo        94

Luminous straw yellow with golden highlights. Lemon, apricot, white chocolate and herbs explode from the glass, and then similar flavours greet the taste buds. Long, precise and dense, this is textured, multilayered white wine that will age effortlessly. Beautiful stuff. Drinking window: 2024-2036

2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo        94

Medium pink colour with a garnet tinge. Aromas and flavours of red berries and herbs, plus a hint of red beans and whte flowers. At once fresh and juicy, with a saline bite on the long back end, this complex, building pink wine strikes me as one of the best Cerasuolo’s Valentini has made in recent years. Dinking window: now-2028

2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo          96

Deep ruby. Fragrant aromas of red cherry, dark plums, tar, licorice, woodsy underbrush and minerals. Textured and layered, with harmonious but lively acidity nicely framing and extending the ripe red fruit flavours on the long back end. There’s real clarity and cut here for what is most likely going to turn out to be Valentini’s best red since his magnificent 2006 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Truly bravissimi as always! Drinking window: 2025-2040

Cataldi Madonna

2017 Pecorino Supergiulia                93  

Bright straw yellow. Varietally accurate aromas and flavours of yellow orchard fruits, sage and thyme, with a twist of lemon for added lift. Clean and pure, with a nicely textural mouthfeel, this lingers impressively on its fresh long finish. Drinking window: now-2026

2018    Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Pie’ delle Vigne                92 

Deep pink. Atypically amssive Pie’ delle Vigne, which takes Rose’ wines into a whole other dimension. Red cherries, rosehips, herbs and flint all combine on the nose and in the mouth to leave a lasting memory. This is a very serious pink wine that will outlive many reds. Well done. Drinking window: now- 2028

2017    Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Malandrino             91 

Deep ruby. Bright and crisp aromas and flavours of red cherries, plums, licorice and tar are lifted by zingy aciodity. Not the most complex red you’ll ever drink, but Malandrino’s charms reside in its juicy upfront fruity personality and its accessible nature. Another winner from Cataldi Madonna. Drinking window: now-2020

Praesidium

2019    Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore            91 

Luminous dark crimson-pink. A whiff of funkiness blows off quickly with aeration, leaving behind clean aromas of red plums, peach and herbs. Smooth and juicy, with varietally accurate red fruit flavours and a lingering stoniness on the zingy but textured finish. This is a pink wine that will stand up to many meat dishes. Drinking window: now-2025

2015    Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva              93

Good full ruby. Deep aromas and flavours of dark plum, licorice, tar, wild herb and woodsy underbrush need plenty of air to show their best. Multilayered and tactile, this Montepulciano wine lingers impressively on the long, still youthfully chewy finish. Drinking window: now-2026

Valori

2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Bio              89

Bright straw yellow. Apple, pear and tangerine on the lively nose. Then at once creamy and fresh in the mouth, with lingering floral and fruit nuances on the bright finish. Drinking window: now-2024

2018 Pecorino Abruzzo Octava Dies              90

Vivid pale golden-tinged yellow. Chamomile and fennel complement hints of ripe tropical fruit and apple. Then slightly more herbal in the mouth, with lively flavours similar to the aromas. The aftertaste is medium-long and fresh. Drinking window: now-2024

Ian D'Agata

赏源葡萄酒评论 Terroir Sense Wine Review主编
赏源风土研究院Terroir Sense Academy院长
国际风土协会副主席
知味 TasteSpirit 首席科学家

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。

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Ian D'Agata