(English) Wines of the week: Col d’Orcia 2016 and Bench 1775  2017

(English) Col d’Orcia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino            94
Bench 1775  2017 Gewurztraminer Okanagan Valley 93
by Ian D’Agata

对不起这篇文章没有中文版,其他语言版本请见English。 For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Col d’Orcia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino            94

dc06fa2966c13e8719f6aeea795f075b-3

Col d’Orcia is one of Montalcino’s ten or so best wineries and though Brunello is the main name of the game here, there are other memorable wines made at Col d’Orcia, including above average Rosso di Montalcino wines and the best Moscadello di Montalcino of the whole area (called Pascena, it’s a sweet late harvest Moscato Bianco wine that strengthens the reputation of Moscadello, that was once more famous than Brunello itself).

The estate winery (the name of which literally means “hill overlooking the Orcia river”) is located in the town of Sant’Angelo Scalo in the south-western quadrant of the Montalcino viticultural zone, one of the warmest, and that therefore gives some of the fleshiest, thickest BdM wines of all. Col d’Orcia is a very traditional producer that still ages its Brunello in large Slavonian and Allier oak casks (25, 50, and 75 hL) for a full three years and then another year in bottle before being released for sale. Made from special Sangiovese clones that were specifically identified and selected at the estate, since the 2013 vintage this Brunello has been certified and labeled as “bio”.

The Col d’Orcia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a wonderful wine that showcases well the greatness of the vintage, one of Montalcino’s best in decades. Bright medium-dark red, it boasts very elegant aromas of red cherry, sweet spices, field herbs, tobacco and licorice. Full-bodied and deep, with a luscious mouthfeel but plenty of acidity that helps keep this beauty light and lively while extending the savory fruit and herbal flavours on the long suave finish. A hint of minerality adds interest on the back end. Well done. Drinking window: 2027-2055.

Bench 1775  2017 Gewurztraminer Okanagan Valley 93

d2851d35446bd050e09608c2964a151a

Named after the estate’s address, Bench 1775 is located on the southern shores of beautiful Lake Okanagan in Canada’s British Columbia Province on the Naramata Bench. The winery sources fruit from multiple vineyards, including the Oxbow Vineyard on the Golden Mile in Osoyoos, as well as from Paradise Ranch Vineyard and Soaring Eagle Vineyard in the Central Okanagan. The estate makes a bevy of different wines, some with whimsical names, while others are more simply identified with the grape variety’s name. The Bench 1775 2017 Gewurztraminer Okanagan Valley is quite simply one of the ten or so best Gewurztraminer wines I have ever tasted outside of Alsace (especially) and Alto Adige. It really is that good. Rich ripe and quite deep, this golden-tinged beauty boasts noteworthy levels of concentration to its ripe tropical and yellow fruit flavours, kicked up a notch by noteworthy levels of sweet spices and ginger. Bright acidity avoids this coming across as heavy, and you invariably go back to you glass again and again, because the balance and concentration are such to make this a remarkably varietally accurate Gewurztraminer wine (a New World example that actually really does taste of a full-throttle Gewurz!) and ultimately, a fairly memorable wine. There is no simpler way to say this than to state that this wine is a real winner! Drinking window: 2026-2050.

Ian D'Agata

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。

Ian D’Agata has been writing and educating about wines for over thirty years. Internationally recognized as an distinguished expert, critic and writer on many wine regions, his two most recent, award winning books Native Wine Grapes of Italy and Italy's Native Wine Grape Terroirs (both published by University of California Press) are widely viewed as the "state of the art" textbooks on the subject. The former book won the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards Book of the Year in 2015 and was ranked as the top wine books of the year for the Los Angeles Times, the Financial Times and the New York Times, while the latter was named among the best wine books of the year by Food & Wine Magazine and the NY Times.[:]

作者的全部文章
留言评论

此站点使用Akismet来减少垃圾评论。了解我们如何处理您的评论数据

Ian D'Agata