(English) Wines of the Week: Nicolas Joly & Manni Nössing


Nicolas Joly 2010 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières 95
Manni Nössing 2010 Sylvaner Valle Isarco Alto Adige  95
by Ian D’Agata

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Nicolas Joly 2010 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières    95

The Clos de la Coulée de Serrant is not just one of the greatest and most famous vineyards of Savennières and in fact of the whole Loire wine region, but of the world. Clearly, much of its fame is due to a series of stellar wines made from the site over the decades, but also to the work and dedication to biodynamics of its owner, Nicolas Joly, arguably the best-known proponent of biodynamic viticulture. The Clos, planted to Chenin Blanc, is a monopole, and produces a wine that is at once rich and deep, oily and light on its feet. And whereas some past vintages were a little funky and aged poorly, recent vintages have been nothing but superb. For example, the Nicolas Joly 2010 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières is nothing short of impressive. Deep golden-yellow in colour, it boasts deep, concentrated aromas of yellow fruit, crystallized ginger, pear nectar, beeswax, mushrooms, clover honey and a hint of spicy noble rot. A surprising tannic presence provides support to the very luscious, superripe, honeyed tropical and orchard fruit flavours that are nicely extended on the long suave back end by just enough acidity to keep this from becoming too heavy or cloying. Decant this beauty a couple of hours ahead at least and serve in a very wide glass.  Drinking window: 2023-2032.

Manni Nössing 2010 Sylvaner Valle Isarco Alto Adige             95

You can’t really begin to understand just how great Italian Sylvaner wines can be unless you have the good fortune to come across a bottle like this one. Now thirteen years old, this is an absolutely memorable wine that showcases just how magnificent this grossly underrated grape variety is and just how marvelous its wines can be (when the product of low yields, mountain/hillside vineyards, relatively old vines, and competent, passionate producers). All of which applies to the wines made by Manny Nössing, one of Italy’s most talented winemakers.

The Manni Nössing 2010 Sylvaner Valle Isarco Alto Adige is a work of art. Bright full straw yellow with golden tinges. Offers deep, complex aromas and flavours of stone fruit, apple, chamomile, coriander and crystallized mango, complicated by delicate notes of beeswax, diesel fuel and quince. Rich and multilayered, and boasting very good harmonious acidity providing energetic cut and clarity and nicely extending the ripe fruit and herbal flavours on the long floral finish. Knockout wine that is at once textured and ripe yet lifted and light on its feet. Drinking window: 2023-2030.


Ian D'Agata

赏源葡萄酒评论 Terroir Sense Wine Review主编
赏源风土研究院Terroir Sense Academy院长
知味 TasteSpirit 首席科学家

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。



Ian D'Agata