(English) Cabernet Gernischt: A Chinese Wine Grape Variety And Wine

(English) This review is a concise presentation of Cabernet Gernischt in China in terms of history, potential, and the characteristics of grapevine and wines. Ian also discusses at length why Caberbet Gernischt ought to be considered a Chinese grape variety.
by Ian D’Agata

对不起这篇文章没有中文版,其他语言版本请见美式英文。 For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Most wine lovers know about Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But how many have ever heard of Cabernet Gernischt? Not many, I would venture to say. And that’s a shame, for Cabernet Gernischt is one of the three wine grapes, along with Marselan and Petit Manseng, that give China’s most interesting and most unique wines. And in some respects, arguably the country’s best red wines.

Photo by: Li Demei

Seven years ago, I was truly honoured to be invited as a speaker, along with the likes of Jancis Robinson, to the first edition of the China Wine Summit (China’s most important and prestigious wine fair devoted to quality Chinese wines). Looking over my tasting notes and scores, I found that the most surprising and best wines were all those made with Marselan, a variety nobody knew much about. But even more interesting was the fact that two monovarietal Cabernet Gernischt wines (a variety we all knew even less about than Marselan) had scored in my top ten wines. Talk about a revelation! That two of my ten favourite wines of the competition were both made with such a little-known variety is significant of itself; but it is even more so when considering that the vast majority of wines that crossed my palate that day were made with the likes of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, making Cabernet Gernischt’s exploit, in such a crowded field, that much more relevant. Over the years, my Cabernet Gernischt epiphany has taken on new meaning, given how many other excellent Chinese Cabernet Gernischt wines have since crossed paths with my eager tastebuds. Even more importantly, it has repeatedly struck me during winery visits in China that it is the Cabernet Gernischt wines that are often the best wines I taste each and every time (by contrast, I have never yet had a truly good Chinese monovarietal Merlot wine; and for that matter, most of the monovarietal Cabernet Sauvignon wines, though much better than the Merlots, aren’t especially interesting by world standards).

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Ian D'Agata

赏源葡萄酒评论 Terroir Sense Wine Review主编
赏源风土研究院Terroir Sense Academy院长
知味 TasteSpirit 首席科学家

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。


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Ian D'Agata