Tedeschi’s Recent Amarone Vintages

by Ian D’Agata

It’s now four centuries and counting (starting back in 1630) at the Tedeschi winery, the family named estate that has given wine lovers some of the best renditions of Amarone of the last twenty years. Wines that are at once traditional and modern, and boast an approachable, easy drinking quality that is not altogether common with many other Amarone wines. the family has long studied native wine grapes and grew many rare ones in their vineyards, such as Marzemina and Turchetta; furthermore it began zoning its holdings back in 2010, so as to have a better grape of what each of its vineyard terroirs might be able to offer. In 2018 the winery began moving towards obtaining a certification of eco-sustainability. The family has enlarged its vineyard holdings over the years, for example buying the beautiful Tenuta Maternigo and now makes many different Amarone wines, each with a distinct story to tell.  more in-depth coverage of the Tedeschi winery and family, I refer you back to the TerroirSense Wine Review: Sabrina Tedeschi of Tedeschi Wines, May 2022).

Tedeschi 2020 Amarone della Valpolicella Marne 180              89

Bright medium-dark red with a pale garnet rim. Aromas of raspberry marmalade, cocoa and herbs. Very herbal on entry, then rich and dense on entry, with sweet, clean violet and raisin flavours complemented by hints of cocoa. Closes lively, long and almost delicate for an Amarone, but also slightly hot. A blend of 35% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% of Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara and Dindarella from twenty years old vines on average planted on mostly marly soils with southeast through southwest exposures. Ages thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Knowing this helps you understand the wine’s name: marne (meaning marl), and 180 as in the amplitude of vineyard exposure. Boasts 16.5%, and you can tell, because of the slightly hot finish. Drinking window: 2026-2032.

Tedeschi 2019 Amarone della Valpolicella Ansari                     93

Deep red with some ruby. Chocolate is very obvious on the nose, along with hints of candied violet, tobacco and leather, but above all red fruits, both fresh and in syrupy reduction. Then rich and deep with flavours of raisins, candied red cherry, crystallized blueberry, powdered rocks and tobacco. There’s a captivating purity and freshness to this Amarone, which boasts 16.5% alcohol; but this beauty is so well-balanced you won’t be able to tell. This drop-dead gorgeous Amarone is made with a blend of 40% Corvina and 40% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta, aged four years in large oak barrels and one year in bottle prior to release. Drinking window: 2026-2035.

Tedeschi 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva La Fabriseria                      96

Bright medium-dark red with a pale rime. Captivating aromas of red cherry, blueberry, cinnamon, vanilla, cloves and milk chocolate. Then really impressively suave in the mouth, with nicely amalgamated flavours of coffee, cocoa, minerals, anise and red cherry coulis. Closes very smooth, long and precise. Truly a beautiful Amarone that seems almost weightless on the palate. Drinking window: 2027-2040.

Tedeschi 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi                       95

Lighter in colour and in style than the 2016 Capitel Momte Olmi Amarone from Tedeschi. Very suave, politely-styled fragrant red cherry and sweet Oriental spices on the nose and in the mouth, with hints of violet that are very pretty. The long aftertaste hints at chocolate, faded red flowers and minerals. Very well balanced and nearly weightless on the palate, always a neat trick for an Amarone. This will age but is remarkably evolved, and ready to drink already now. Monte Olmi is a 2.5 hectare west-facing single vineyard located in Pedemonte di Valpolicella. The wine is made with a blend of 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 10% of Croatina, Forselina, Oseleta, Negrara and Dindarella from twenty years old vines on average. Drinking window: 2025-2035.

Tedeschi 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi                     97+

Deep ruby-red. Big, full red wine, currently shut down on the nose but hints at noteworthy complexity. Strapping but smooth on the palate, this offers dark plum, some smoky coffee and plenty of red and dark cherry flavours. The finish is long, suave and very well-balanced. More closed than the 2017 Monte Olmi, and also deeper and texturally richer, but at the same time still developing. Currently a little monolithic if very promising, this just needs time in a good cellar.  Drinking window: 2026-2032.

 

 

Ian D'Agata

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。

Ian D’Agata has been writing and educating about wines for over thirty years. Internationally recognized as an distinguished expert, critic and writer on many wine regions, his two most recent, award winning books Native Wine Grapes of Italy and Italy's Native Wine Grape Terroirs (both published by University of California Press) are widely viewed as the "state of the art" textbooks on the subject. The former book won the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards Book of the Year in 2015 and was ranked as the top wine books of the year for the Los Angeles Times, the Financial Times and the New York Times, while the latter was named among the best wine books of the year by Food & Wine Magazine and the NY Times.[:]

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Ian D'Agata