Anthony Barton, 91, Owner of Bordeaux’s Chateau Leoville Barton and Chateau Langoa Barton, Has Passed Away

by Ian D’Agata

“A man of distinction”.

“The perfect gentleman”.

“A very important figure for Bordeaux”

“He is my hero”.

Anthony Barton, the charming, elegant and soft-spoken owner of second-growth Château Léoville Barton and third-growth Château Langoa Barton, has passed away. He was 91.

If a man’s success in life is measured by all the nice things people say about him, both during his lifetime and afterwards, then Barton was an exceptionally successful man. The quotes above are but a very small sampling of the comments I have personally heard about him over the last twenty years of visiting Bordeaux as often as five different times a year. Most significantly, the vast majority of those comments were made by Barton’s fellow Château owners, which tells you all you need to know about the great esteem he was held in. I remember my encounters with him fondly: a brilliant winemaker/winery owner for sure, but above all, a very nice man who despite his stature in the Bordeaux wine business, always had time for a young wine writer such as myself. Visiting and tasting with Barton was always a pleasure, and as you will have understood by now, not just because the wines were always so wonderful and amongst the best made in Bordeaux every vintage (and sold at a very affordable and fair price, I may add).

By the way, the last quote above, “He is my hero” was by none other than Steven Spurrier. We should all be so lucky.

Anthony Barton is survived by his wife, Eva, along with Lilian, Michel, Damien and Melanie.

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Anthony Barton inherited Château Léoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton from his uncle Ronald, and he was one of the very few chateau owners (in fact, for a long time, the only one) who actually lived at the château (from 1986 with his wife, Eva). In fact, these two properties (and by the way, neither one of which has a dash in their name on the label) are true rarities in that they still in then hands of the same family that owned them at the time of the 1855 Classification of the Medoc wines.

The Barton family has a long and colorful history, one that is firmly attached to Bordeaux and its wines. In 1722, Thomas Barton left Ireland for Bordeaux and began working in wine by starting a successful Bordeaux négociant business (this is not surprising, given that Ireland was the second-largest export market for Bordeaux wines at the time). In 1821, his son Hugh bought the property in Sant-Julien called Pontet-Langlois, renaming it Château Langoa Barton in the process. And when in 1826 the large Léoville estate came up for sale, Barton proceeded to buy a large swath of vineyards from which he made the wine of Château Léoville Barton (which does not have a winery building: the wine is made at Langoa Barton). Of course, in Bordeaux wine circles the name of Barton is also associated with the famous négociant firm of Barton & Guestier, where Anthony himself worked upon arriving in Bordeaux at age twenty-one, prior to setting up his own company, Les Vins Fins Anthony Barton, where he worked for years next to his daughter Lilian, and who continued to manage the négociant business during the years that Barton moved to live in Saint-Julien. She gradually took over the running of the two Saint-Julien estates when her father’s health began to fail, helped by her husband Michel Sartorius, and their children Damien and Melanie. (In 2011, Lilian and Michel kept up the Barton family tradition of acquiring Bordeaux properties, buying Château Mauvesin Barton in Moulis. Quite rightly, Lilian kept up another family tradition too: established in 1457 by Jean de Foix Grailly, the property’s original name was Château Mauvesin, but the name was promptly changed to Mauvesin Barton.) 

Ian D'Agata

伊安·达加塔在葡萄酒领域耕耘超过30年,在葡萄酒品评、葡萄酒科研写作和葡萄酒教育等方面,都取得了杰出的成果,在葡萄酒行业和葡萄酒爱好者中,享有世界性声望。作为享誉国际的葡萄酒作家,他最近的两本著作《意大利原生葡萄品种》《意大利原生葡萄品种风土》被公认为意大利葡萄酒领域的权威著作;前者荣获2015年Louis Roederer国际葡萄酒作家大奖赛“年度最佳书籍奖”,他是唯一获此殊荣的意大利葡萄酒作家,并入选《洛杉矶时报》、《金融时报》、《纽约时报》评选的“年度葡萄酒书籍”榜单;后者被《纽约时报》和美国的Food & Wine杂志提名为年度最佳葡萄酒书籍。

Ian D’Agata has been writing and educating about wines for over thirty years. Internationally recognized as an distinguished expert, critic and writer on many wine regions, his two most recent, award winning books Native Wine Grapes of Italy and Italy's Native Wine Grape Terroirs (both published by University of California Press) are widely viewed as the "state of the art" textbooks on the subject. The former book won the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards Book of the Year in 2015 and was ranked as the top wine books of the year for the Los Angeles Times, the Financial Times and the New York Times, while the latter was named among the best wine books of the year by Food & Wine Magazine and the NY Times.[:]

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3 comments
  • lovely fellow. he came to Texas often on the 1980’s when we sold his wine. We would visit him at Langoa, always a great visit. he’ll be missed.

  • I am saddened to learn of Anthony Barton’s death. A gentleman’s gentleman, he was kind and thoughtful to a degree one rarely encounters. Everything good about the Bordelaise was expressed in the way he greeted and spoke with people. Leoville Barton remains one of the few top Medocs to have resisted the tendency to super-concentration and sweetness. It was and is a truly classic wine. This is largely due to Anthony Barton’s having remained faithful to the nature of his estates.

Ian D'Agata