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TerroirSense TeamClos de Vougeot, Burgundy – March 27, 2025
On March 27, 2025, within the historic walls of Château du Clos de Vougeot in the heart of Burgundy, a solemn ceremony of conferment unfolded. Dr. Bernard Burtschy, the 74-year-old world-renowned wine critic and President of the French Wine Press Association (APV), was bestowed the Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole (Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit), France’s highest honor in agriculture.
The medal was presented by Mr. Aubert de Villaine, former co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Honorary President of the International Terroir Association. Bernard Burtschy, the Alsatian known as the “Data Authority of the Wine World,” devoted his life to fusing mathematical rigor with terroir’s vitality. His work not only reshaped the art of wine tasting but also guided the spirit of terroir toward a harmony of reason and sensibility.
Photo: Jean-Daniel Kientz
The Order of Agricultural Merit: A Century-Old Tribute, “Highest Honor” of French Agriculture
Established in 1883, the Ordre du Mérite Agricole stands as France’s most prestigious agricultural honor, paralleling the revered Légion d’Honneur in stature. Awarded by the French Ministry of Agriculture, it recognizes exceptional contributions to agriculture, food industry, rural development, and environmental stewardship. Its ranks—Chevalier (Knight), Officier (Officer), and Commandeur (Commander)—have celebrated visionaries from humble vignerons to revolutionary scientists.
Historically, its recipients range from humble farmers and vignerons to scientists revolutionizing agricultural technology. Legendary figures like Henri Jayer, Nicolas Joly (pioneer of biodynamics), and Jacky Rigaux (globally renowned wine writer, Vice President of the International Terroir Association, and TasteSpirit consultant) have all been honored. This medal not only acknowledges personal achievement but also symbolizes France’s unwavering commitment to preserving the wisdom of its terroirs and the legacy of its cultural traditions. Dr. Burtschy’s induction pays homage to his lifelong advocacy for “Wine Science and Culture” and reaffirms wine’s sacred role as an eternal treasure of French agriculture.
From Math Professor to Acclaimed Wine Critic: A Cross-Border Legend
Born in 1949 into a winegrowing family in Sundgau, Alsace, Burtschy’s childhood was steeped in the aromas of vineyards and cellars. The family’s winemaking tradition ignited his deep affection for the land. In his youth, he pursued a path seemingly distant from wine—earning a PhD in Statistics and Mathematics. He became a professor at France’s prestigious grandes écoles, Télécom ParisTech and École Centrale Paris, specializing in data mining and big data research for over 30 years. He collaborated with top American universities, driving innovation in data science, and mentored students who founded several related enterprises.
Bernard Burtschy lecturing at Télécom ParisTech.
Yet, the call of wine never faded. In 1977, a chance attendance at a tasting class at the Académie du Vin in Paris irrevocably changed his life’s course. Within a few short years, he rose from student to expert lecturer. By the 1980s, he was a lead writer for La Revue du Vin de France and Gault & Millau, discovering numerous estates then obscure that are legendary today. He served for many years as wine columnist for France’s leading newspaper, Le Figaro, and its magazine, Le Figaro Magazine, and founded the country’s most visited wine website “L’Avis du Vin du Figaro.” His personal website, bernardburtschy.com archives tens of thousands wine tasting notes. His dual background—the rationality of a mathematician and the sensibility of a wine critic—enabled him to apply multidimensional statistical methods to wine tasting. He established the tasting protocol standards for the “Grand Jury Européen,” elevating wine evaluation from subjective experience to a scientific art.
Transmitting Wine and Terroir Culture: A Legacy of Teaching
Over the decades, bridging his family vineyards in Sundgau and the lecture halls of Parisian grandes écoles, Bernard Burtschy assembled a treasure trove of over 40,000 bottles of terroir-driven wines from around the world, spanning 50 vintages. This collection forms the pedagogical core for his Université Bernard Burtschy, where he teaches courses from novice to professional levels.
During his professorship at several Parisian institutions, including Télécom ParisTech and Ecole Centrale de Paris, he also ran regular tasting courses for elite students, inviting renowned estates to share their insights within the universities, tirelessly promoting wine culture. Siwei Zhu, Editor-in-Chief of TasteSpirit, entered the world of wine through training in his tasting courses between 2008 and 2011.
Bernard Burtschy co-chairing a masterclass with Mr. Philippe Casteja, President of the Commanderie du Bontemps des Grands Crus Classés en 1855, at the International Terroir Symposium.
His profound interest in the world’s wines has taken him across global regions—from Barolo and Napa Valley to Valais, and as far as Ningxia and Shandong in China. A longstanding member of the International Terroir Association and an expert consultant for TasteSpirit, he closely follows the development of Chinese wine, actively engaging with enthusiasts and professionals in China.
Over the past decade, he has frequently served as a tasting panelist and featured speaker at events hosted by TasteSpirit & TerroirSense, including the International Terroir Symposium and the Discover China: China Wine Summit. He generously shares his lifetime of knowledge, disseminating wine culture and terroir philosophy. Many Chinese wine lovers have read his articles on TasteSpirit and participated in the masterclasses and tasting dinners he has led.
