{"id":923,"date":"2021-02-19T15:33:26","date_gmt":"2021-02-19T07:33:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/?p=923"},"modified":"2021-04-04T23:14:57","modified_gmt":"2021-04-04T15:14:57","slug":"merlot-france-and-italy-lead-worldwide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/p\/923.html","title":{"rendered":"\u6885\u6d1b\uff1a\u6cd5\u56fd\u548c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u5f15\u9886\u5168\u7403"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\"A-truly-impressive-lineup-of-great-wines-1024x768-1-1-1\"<\/p>\n

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\u6885\u6d1b\u4e0e\u98ce\u571f<\/b><\/strong><\/h3>\n

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\u6885\u6d1b\u5728<\/b><\/strong>\u6cd5\u56fd<\/b><\/strong>\u548c\u610f\u5927\u5229<\/b><\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u6cd5\u56fd\u6ce2\u5c14\u591a\u53f3\u5cb8\u7684\u6ce2\u7f8e\u4faf\uff08Pomerol\uff09\u548c\u5723\u57c3\u7f8e\u9686\uff08Saint-Emilion\uff09\u4ea7\u533a\u2014\u2014\u5c24\u5176\u662f\u6ce2\u7f8e\u4faf\u2014\u2014\u662f\u4e16\u754c\u4e0a\u6700\u597d\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u7684\u4ea7\u5730\u3002\u53ea\u6709\u610f\u5927\u5229\u80fd\u751f\u4ea7\u8db3\u591f\u591a\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u4f73\u917f\u4ee5\u6311\u6218\u6cd5\u56fd\u5728\u8fd9\u4e00\u7279\u5b9a\u9886\u57df\u7684\u9886\u5148\u5730\u4f4d\u3002<\/p>\n

\u6cd5\u56fd<\/b><\/strong><\/h3>\n

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\"Barrel-room-at-LEvangile-1024x768-1-2\"
L’Evangile\u9152\u7a96\u4e2d\u7684\u6a61\u6728\u6876<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\"Ian-at-Petrus-the-man-and-the-myth-1024x768-1-2\"<\/p>\n

\u610f\u5927\u5229<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u6ce2\u5c14\u591a\u53f3\u5cb8\u5f88\u5c11\u6709100\uff05\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\uff0c\u4e0e\u4e4b\u4e0d\u540c\u7684\u662f\uff0c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u5f80\u5f80\u662f100\uff05\u5355\u4e00\u54c1\u79cd\u7684\u3002\u7136\u800c\uff0c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u4e5f\u53ea\u662f\u5728\u76f8\u5bf9\u8f83\u665a\u7684\u65f6\u5019\u624d\u5f00\u59cb\u6d41\u884c\u3002\u65e9\u572819\u4e16\u7eaa\u4e4b\u524d\uff0c\u4e2a\u522b\u8d35\u65cf\u5bb6\u5ead\u5c31\u5df2\u7ecf\u5728\u610f\u5927\u5229\u96f6\u661f\u5730\u79cd\u690d\u6885\u6d1b\uff0c\u4f46\u76f4\u5230\u8be5\u4e16\u7eaa\u672b\uff0c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u917f\u9152\u5e08\u624d\u5f00\u59cb\u5728\u5168\u56fd\u8303\u56f4\u5185\u5927\u89c4\u6a21\u79cd\u690d\u6885\u6d1b\u3002\u4f46\u662f\uff0c\u5728\u6574\u4e2a20\u4e16\u7eaa\u7684\u5927\u90e8\u5206\u65f6\u95f4\u91cc\uff0c\u6885\u6d1b\u53ea\u5728\u610f\u5927\u5229\u4e1c\u5317\u90e8\u5f97\u4ee5\u771f\u6b63\u6d41\u884c\u2014\u2014\u4e3b\u8981\u662f\u5a01\u5c3c\u6258\u548c\u5f17\u7559\u5229-\u5a01\u5c3c\u65af\u6731\u5229\u4e9a\u5730\u533a\uff08Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia\uff09\u3002\u5728\u6b64\u4e4b\u540e\u76841970\u5e74\u4ee3\u521d\uff0c\u5b83\u8fc5\u901f\u5728\u8d85\u7ea7\u6258\u65af\u5361\u7eb3\uff08\u201c\u8d85\u6258\u201d\uff0cSupertuscan\uff09\u6df7\u917f\u8461\u8404\u9152\u4e2d\u4eab\u6709\u4e00\u5e2d\u4e4b\u5730\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e9b\u9876\u7ea7\u8d85\u6258\u8461\u8404\u9152\u4ea7\u4e8e\u57fa\u5b89\u8482\uff08Chianti\uff09\u7b49\u4e45\u8d1f\u76db\u540d\u7684\u4ea7\u533a\u4e4b\u5916\uff0c\u5728\u90a3\u91cc\uff0c\u56fd\u9645\u54c1\u79cd\uff08\u4f8b\u5982\u6885\u6d1b\uff09\u5e76\u672a\u88ab\u7eb3\u5165\u89c6\u7ebf\uff08\u6216\u8005\u8bf4\u4e0d\u88ab\u5141\u8bb8\uff09\u3002\u4f46\u8d85\u6258\u7740\u5b9e\u54c1\u8d28\u62d4\u7fa4\uff0c\u5e76\u81ea\u6b64\u4eab\u8a89\u56fd\u9645\uff1a\u4eca\u5929\uff0c\u5b83\u4eec\u5df2\u8dfb\u8eab\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6700\u597d\u7684\u8461\u8404\u9152\u4e4b\u5217\u3002\u663e\u7136\uff0c\u5e76\u4e0d\u662f\u6240\u6709\u7684\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u90fd\u4ee4\u4eba\u96be\u5fd8\uff1a\u8bb8\u591a\u8461\u8404\u9152\u5145\u5176\u91cf\u662f\u7d22\u7136\u65e0\u5473\uff0c\u800c\u6700\u7cdf\u7cd5\u7684\u5219\u54c1\u8d28\u4f4e\u52a3\u3002\u4ec5\u6709\u6781\u5c11\u6570\u4f8b\u5916\u2014\u2014\u6211\u60f3\u5230\u4e86\u683c\u62c9\u8299\u5185\uff08Gravner\uff09\u548c\u7c73\u4e9a\u5c3c\uff08Miani\uff09\u2014\u2014\u5a01\u5c3c\u6258\u548c\u5f17\u7559\u5229-\u5a01\u5c3c\u65af\u6731\u5229\u4e9a\u5730\u533a\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u867d\u7136\u5728\u5f53\u5730\u5f88\u53d7\u6b22\u8fce\uff0c\u5374\u672a\u80fd\u5728\u5f53\u5730\u4ee5\u5916\u6253\u54cd\uff08\u5a01\u5c3c\u6258\u548c\u5f17\u7559\u5229-\u5a01\u5c3c\u65af\u6731\u5229\u4e9a\u5730\u533a\u53c8\u51b7\u53c8\u591a\u96e8\uff0c\u6885\u6d1b\u5728\u90a3\u91cc\u4e0d\u4f1a\u6709\u4ec0\u4e48\u597d\u7684\u8868\u73b0\uff09\u3002\u5728\u610f\u5927\u5229\u7684\u4e2d\u90e8\u548c\u5357\u90e8\uff0c\u8461\u8404\u7684\u751f\u957f\u60c5\u51b5\u4e5f\u6ca1\u6709\u597d\u5230\u54ea\u91cc\u53bb\uff1a\u98de\u884c\u987e\u95ee\u917f\u9152\u5e08\u4eec\u5728\u63a8\u52a8\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u7684\u79cd\u690d\uff0c\u5e0c\u5180\u4ed6\u4eec\u53bb\u8fc7\u7684\u4efb\u4f55\u5730\u65b9\u90fd\u80fd\u590d\u5236\u4ed6\u4eec\u7684\u917f\u9152\u914d\u65b9\uff0c\u4f46\u662f\u5728\u8bb8\u591a\u9152\u5e84\uff0c\u8fd9\u79cd\u8461\u8404\u5df2\u7ecf\u88ab\u626f\u6389\u6216\u7528\u4e8e\u5ac1\u63a5\u4e86\uff08\u4f8b\u5982\uff1a\u897f\u897f\u91cc\u592a\u70ed\u4e86\uff0c\u4ee5\u81f3\u4e8e\u8fd9\u79cd\u72ec\u7279\u7684\u917f\u9152\u8461\u8404\u51e0\u4e4e\u65e0\u6cd5\u8868\u73b0\u51fa\u4efb\u4f55\u503c\u5f97\u5173\u6ce8\u7684\u7279\u6027\uff09\u3002\u5f53\u7136\uff0c\u70ed\u91cf\u53ea\u662f\u4f73\u917f\u751f\u4ea7\u65b9\u7a0b\u5f0f\u7684\u4e00\u90e8\u5206\uff0c\u6885\u6d1b\u4e4b\u6240\u4ee5\u672a\u80fd\u5728\u51e0\u4e4e\u5176\u4ed6\u4efb\u4f55\u5730\u65b9\u4ea7\u51fa\u50cf\u6ce2\u7f8e\u4faf\u4e00\u6837\u51fa\u8272\u7684\u8461\u8404\u9152\uff0c\u5176\u539f\u56e0\u662f\u591a\u79cd\u591a\u6837\u7684\u3002\u7531\u4e8e\u5c1a\u4e0d\u5b8c\u5168\u6e05\u695a\u7684\u539f\u56e0\uff0c\u6885\u6d1b\u9152\u5e84\u5728\u6258\u65af\u5361\u7eb3\u5730\u533a\u8868\u73b0\u51fa\u8272\uff1a\u4e0d\u5149\u5728\u6258\u65af\u5361\u7eb3\u6d77\u5cb8\u4e0a\u2014\u2014\u4e3b\u8981\u5728\u4fdd\u683c\u5229\u9547\uff08Bolgheri\uff09\u9644\u8fd1\uff0c\u5e76\u4e14\u4ea7\u533a\u4ee5\u76f8\u540c\u7684\u540d\u79f0\u547d\u540d\uff0c\u5b9e\u9645\u4e0a\u90a3\u91cc\u9633\u5149\u660e\u5a9a\uff0c\u6709\u65f6\u4f1a\u5f88\u70ed\uff0c\u4f46\u5728\u8be5\u5730\u533a\u8f83\u4e3a\u51c9\u723d\u3001\u9633\u5149\u8f83\u5c11\u7684\u5185\u9646\u5730\u533a\u2014\u2014\u5982\u7ecf\u5178\u57fa\u5b89\u8482\uff08Chianti Classico\uff09\u53ca\u5468\u8fb9\u5730\u533a\uff0c\u6885\u6d1b\u4e5f\u80fd\u8868\u73b0\u5f97\u5982\u660e\u661f\u822c\u95ea\u8000\u2014\u2014\u4ece\u571f\u58e4\u4e0a\u770b\uff0c\u4e16\u754c\u8457\u540d\u7684\u9a6c\u8d5b\u6258\u9152\u5e84\uff08Masseto\uff09\u786e\u5b9e\u62e5\u6709\u8ba9\u5e15\u56fe\u65af\u548c\u5c0f\u90e8\u5206\u6ce2\u7f8e\u4faf\u5730\u533a\u95fb\u540d\u9050\u8fe9\u7684\u84dd\u8272\u7c98\u571f\uff0c\u6240\u4ee5\u8fd9\u53ef\u80fd\u4e5f\u65e0\u59a8\u3002\u65e0\u8bba\u5982\u4f55\uff0c\u6258\u65af\u5361\u7eb3\u51fa\u4ea7\u7684\u4e16\u754c\u7ea7\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u7684\u6570\u91cf\u4ec5\u6b21\u4e8e\u6cd5\u56fd\u53f3\u5cb8\u7684\u8461\u8404\u9152\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e00\u70b9\u662f\u65e0\u53ef\u4e89\u8bae\u7684\uff1a\u4f8b\u5982\u675c\u9a6c\u5c3c\u9152\u5e84\uff08Duemani\uff09\u3001\u739b\u5947\u5965\u9152\u5e84\uff08Le Macchiole\uff09\u7684\u6885\u7d22\u4e3d\uff08Messorio\uff09\u3001\u9a6c\u585e\u6258\u9152\u5e84\uff08Masseto\uff09\u7684\u9a6c\u8d5b\u6258\uff08Masseto\uff09\u3001\u76ae\u7279\u7f57\u9152\u5e84\uff08Petrolo\uff09\u7684\u52a0\u62c9\u6258\u7eb3\uff08Galatrona\uff09\u3001\u5723\u6731\u65af\u6258\u9152\u5e84\uff08San Giusto a Rentennano\uff09\u7684\u96f7\u5bc7\u739b\uff08La Ricolma\uff09\u3001\u56fe\u4e3d\u5854\u9152\u5e84\uff08Tua Rita\uff09\u7684\u4e50\u8fea\u52a0\u83f2\uff08Redigaffi\uff09\u7b49\u8461\u8404\u9152\uff0c\u6bcb\u5eb8\u7f6e\u7591\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e9b\u4e0d\u4ec5\u4ec5\u662f\u4e16\u754c\u4e0a\u6392\u540d\u524d25-30\u7684\u6885\u6d1b\u8461\u8404\u9152\uff0c\u800c\u4e14\u5728\u5168\u7403\u6700\u4f1f\u5927\u7684\u7ea2\u8461\u8404\u9152\u5e8f\u5217\u4e2d\u4ea6\u80fd\u62d4\u7fa4\u51fa\u8403\u3002<\/p>\n

\u672c\u62a5\u544a\u4e2d\u7684\u8461\u8404\u9152\u7531\u672c\u4eba\u7cbe\u9009\uff0c\u5e76\u4e8e2021\u5e741\u6708\u5728\u4e0a\u6d77\u6b66\u5eb7\u56ed\u9910\u5385\u4e3e\u884c<\/i><\/em>\u7684\u4e00\u6b21<\/i><\/em>\u6885\u6d1b\u4f73\u917f\u7279\u522b\u54c1\u9274<\/i><\/em>\u665a\u5bb4<\/i><\/em>\u4e0a\u5f97\u4ee5\u54c1\u5c1d\u3002<\/i><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Spoils-of-war-768x1024-1-2\"<\/h3>\n

The wines<\/strong><\/h3>\n

1998 Castello di Ama Merlot Toscana Rosso Apparita\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a095<\/strong><\/p>\n

Luminous deep ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet and minerals on the very refined, pure nose. Very pure and concentrated, with excellent cut and vinosity too to its dark fruit, bitter chocolate, herb and licorice flavours. Extremely fine-grained and light on its feet, yet this gorgeous and still very young wine communicates a strong presence of extract, harmonious acidity and polished tannic spine, a combination that will guarantee future aging. Not a blockbuster but refined and suave, as is highly typical of Apparita. A beautiful wine. Drinking window: now-2034<\/p>\n

2016 Petrolo Toscana Rosso Galatrona\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a089<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright ruby. Musky nose combines blueberry, blackberry, violet, herbs, and spices, plus obvious slightly funky undertones of game and leather. Suave and silky, with a somewhat wild quality to its concentrated flavors of small dark fruits, licorice, minerals and leather. Finishes long with nobly polished tannins and harmonious acidity. I normally love Galatrona, which I think is one of the world\u2019s top dozen or so Merlot wines, but this specific vintage strikes me as being a little gamey, and may not be for everyone owing to its slight funkiness. Extended aeration helped bring out more intense and purer fruit and violet nuances, but it\u2019s never a good sign when the person next to you turns over at first sip and asks \u201cIs this a natural wine\u201d? (in fact, Petrolo follows organic viticulture and minimal intervention practices). I have never had this problem with Petrolo\u2019s wines before, so I am hoping this was a one time thing. In my experience, Galatrona is normally always a beautifully clean, pure, wine that ages magnificently well and that I regularly score in the 93-97 range. Drinking window: 2024-2032.<\/p>\n

2012 Ch\u00e2teau \u00a0Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 91\u00a0\u00a0 <\/strong><\/p>\n

Medium-dark saturated ruby. Bright aromas and flavours of blackberry, violet, coffee, pepper and mint. Then juicy, saline and very smooth, with an almost candied quality to its dark fruit flavors. Neither especially fleshy nor the last word in complexity, but very suave and well-balanced, finishing long and savory. A very good example of the simple but very pretty style of Merlot from the Maillet area of Pomerol, this wine denotes quite a bit of class. Drinking window: now-2030.<\/p>\n

2008 Ch\u00e2teau \u00a0La Conseillante Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 96<\/strong><\/p>\n

Vibrant good full ruby. Highly perfumed and beautifully precise aromas and flavours of blueberry, blackcurrant, peppery herbs, minerals and underbrush. Then virtually weightless, with outstanding focus and inner-mouth aromatic perfume and noteworthy density. Finishes very subtle and long, with refined tannins and repeating notes of liquid minerality and explosive violet perfume. The La Conseillante wines of the last half of the 2000s were some of the purest, most beautiful wines ever made at the property (and of all Pomerol actually), then things changed and wines have become bigger and more fleshy. Whatever makes you happy, I guess. Drinking window: now-2038.<\/p>\n

2006 Miani Merlot Friuli Colli Orientali\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 NR<\/strong><\/p>\n

Full, deep ruby-red. Polished aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice with sexy oak tones of bitter chocolate, cocoa powder and espresso are unfortunately ever so slightly marred by cork taint. The wine seemed to be wonderfully velvety and rich, with outstanding verve to the primary black fruit, violet and licorice flavors, but clearly the wine was impossible to appreciate as it deserved to be. Given the wine was sullied by cork taint, I did not score it: the NR stands for \u201cnot rated\u201d.<\/p>\n

2011 Ch\u00e2teau l\u2019Evangile Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a094<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fully saturated ruby. Broad, pure aromas of black fruit syrup, licorice, cocoa, roast coffee and candied violet. Dense, creamy and impressively deep, showing a velvety texture and noteworthy sweet ripeness to its ultra-concentrated black and blue fruit flavours. Impeccably balanced and downright plush, you can tell 2011 was a hot year. That said, the tannins are splendidly polished, and the very long, lush, suave finish is a marvel. I prefer my wines on the side of refinement and nuance rather than that of opulence and lusciousness, but it\u2019s hard to argue with how good this wine is. Drinking window: now-2040.<\/p>\n

2011 Tua Rita Toscana Rosso Redigaffi\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 98<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fully saturated ruby. Knockout aromas of blueberry, red cherry, violet, minerals, coffee, milk chocolate and aromatic herbs. Suave, juicy and attractively sweet, with rather Bordeaux-like flavours of dark berries, herbs and spices but with southern Tuscany\u2019s lusciousness. Multilayered and exceptionally deep, this ultra-complex, rich wine is amazingly light on its feet and boasts truly remarkable clarity and cut (especially considering that 2011 was a hot year). The long, rising finish features very smooth tannins and harmonious acidity. Long on personality, this is an absolutely knockout Redigaffi: simply put, one of the ten or twelve best Italian red wines I have had from the 2011 vintage. Drinking window: now-2036.<\/p>\n

1999 Ch\u00e2teau Trotanoy Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 98<\/strong><\/p>\n

Deep luminous ruby. The deep, perfumed nose combines blackcurrant, raspberry, fruity peppercorn, licorice, cocoa and minerals all lifted by a strongly fragrant violet topnote of exceptional purity. Then pure silk in the mouth, the 1999 Trotanoy boasts an almost painful intensity and soil-driven precision to its flavours of black and blue fruits, spices and minerals. A Trotanoy that is not just about power, but of real finesse and thrust too. The finish kept me company while I was walking home hours later. An outstanding Trotanoy that had been marvelously well cellared, this is the best bottle of 1999 Trotanoy I have ever had. Memorable wine. Drinking window: now-2045.<\/p>\n

2004 Ornellaia Toscana Rosso Masseto\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a099<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright ruby-red. Multidimensional aromas have a decadent quality with thick, ripe blackcurrant, black cherry, brown spices, bitter chocolate, minerals and violet notes literally exploding out of the glass; this has an air-dried, almost Amarone or Port-like quality but is amazingly refined too. Sweet, creamy and deep, yet focused and energetic in spite of its ripe, velvety texture. The dark fruit and spice flavors carry through on the extremely long, vibrant finish featuring smoother than silk tannins and building sweetness. One of the best Massetos ever made, this is just an unforgettable mine and I\u2019m probably being stingy giving it \u201conly\u201d 99 points. Drinking window: now-2040<\/p>\n

1995 Petrus Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 99<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright medium ruby. Very perfumed and pure on the nose, with expressive red and black fruits, sweet spices, cocoa and flowers jumping out of the glass. Then extremely smooth and suave in the mouth, with unbelievable class to the dark berry, coffee, Oriental spices and bitter chocolate flavors; uncommonly for this Pomerol of nearly mythical proportions, the 1995 Petrus boasts a penetrating minerality that contributes to the impression of precision, verve and lightness of being. The finish is smooth and classic, with noble tannins and lingering violet and cocoa echoes. Not the most powerful Petrus you\u2019ll ever taste, but a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it\u2019s simply impossible to describe just how seamless and weightless this beautiful wine is, with tannins that are so unique in their \u201ctouch\u201d that I cannot but score the wine as high as I have. Drinking window: now-2045.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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