{"id":5591,"date":"2022-01-26T12:19:41","date_gmt":"2022-01-26T04:19:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/?p=5591"},"modified":"2022-03-06T10:18:14","modified_gmt":"2022-03-06T02:18:14","slug":"the-peru-diaries-my-favorite-barrio-in-lima-barranco-definitely","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/p\/5591.html","title":{"rendered":"(English) The Peru Diaries: My Favorite Barrio in Lima – Barranco\u2026.Definitely"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u5bf9\u4e0d\u8d77\u8fd9\u7bc7\u6587\u7ae0\u6ca1\u6709\u4e2d\u6587\u7248\uff0c\u5176\u4ed6\u8bed\u8a00\u7248\u672c\u8bf7\u89c1English<\/a>\u3002 For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.<\/p>

Lima is a large sprawling metropolis with almost 11 million people densely packed into over one thousand square miles.\u00a0 It is arid, damp, grey and beautifully bathed in a chiaroscuro light.\u00a0 Bordering the Pacific Ocean, the altitude ranges from sea level to over 5,000 feet sitting on cliffs overlooking the surf.\u00a0 It\u2019s noisy, bustling and energetic.\u00a0 Life in Lima is a hustle with the common denominator being food.\u00a0 Rich or poor, young or old, conversation eventually winds itself back to la comida<\/em>\u2026 what are we eating next?\u00a0 Arguments over the best ceviche,<\/em> the best jugo de frutas<\/em>, the best type of fish, the most authentic lomo saltado<\/em> are as common as the constant grey mist of the city.\u00a0 I love it.<\/p>\n

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The municipality is divided into barrios<\/em> or neighborhoods.\u00a0 If you\u2019re a tourist, chances are you\u2019ll book a hotel or AirBnB in Miraflores or San Isidro but my favorite neighborhood by far is Barranco.\u00a0 Don\u2019t get me wrong.\u00a0 Both Miraflores and San Isidro are fabulous with plenty of shops, parks, some of the top restaurants in the world, spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and the Lima panorama but Barranco speaks to my soul.<\/p>\n

El<\/em> Malecon, <\/em>the coastal walking path in Miraflores, spans the cliffs high above the Pacific Ocean.\u00a0 On any given day you\u2019ll find joggers, families, dog clubs, skateboarders, cyclists and city workers tending the precious green spaces all clamoring for a few moments of calm in the boisterous city.\u00a0 If you continue walking north on the path and take a little detour in land and then back towards the ocean, you\u2019ll arrive in Barranco and a whole different world.<\/p>\n

Barranco is the bohemian, artsy neighborhood with a different energy.\u00a0 Old Belle Epoque style villas have been renovated into grand residences or apartments, art galleries and boutique hotels or languish in decrepitude waiting to be reborn.\u00a0 Restaurants are stylish and the vibe is young\u2026 but not necessarily in a chronological way.\u00a0 Coffee houses are on every corner.\u00a0 The internationally famous fashion photographer Mario Testino has a gallery here.\u00a0 Nobel Prize winning author Mario Vargas Llosa is in residence.\u00a0 All kinds of music leaks onto the street from behind closed doors.\u00a0 Street Art is everywhere you look.\u00a0 Barranco vibrates with creativity and possibility.<\/p>\n

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On this trip we were finally able to book a suite at the coveted Hotel B (Jiron Saenz Pena 204, Barranco), Lima\u2019s only Relais & Chateaux property.\u00a0 It did not disappoint!\u00a0 Each suite or room is uniquely designed.\u00a0 Over 300 pieces of contemporary art adorn the common spaces.\u00a0 As you wind your way around the hotel, you continue to discover super cute sitting areas where the staff will bring you a snack, glass of wine or cocktail or you can just sit and admire the d\u00e9cor.\u00a0 There are several dining areas to take in breakfast and a roof top deck for eating or drinking.\u00a0 A well-appointed gift shop and gallery complete the experience.\u00a0 The concierges are so helpful including arranging takeaway breakfasts for those super early flights.<\/p>\n

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After we checked in and got a little settled, we raced down the street to one our most favorite restaurants, Isolina<\/strong> (Av. San Martin 101, Barranco).\u00a0 It\u2019s not fancy.\u00a0 In fact, it\u2019s not even that comfortable.\u00a0 Simple wooden tables and chairs cover two floors with the kitchen located on the second floor.\u00a0 The food however is classic Peruvian all things crave-able perfection.\u00a0 Dining at Isolina is like scratching an impossible to reach flavor itch.<\/p>\n

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We started with the very dangerous maracuya<\/em> sour cocktail.\u00a0 Pisco, lime, passion fruit and egg white are shaken, not stirred and poured over ice to delight the imbiber and fool them into thinking it\u2019s just a little fruit juice.\u00a0 Pisco however packs a punch.\u00a0 It is seriously easy to down three of these before you even know what happened. The alcohol will sneak up and hit you upside the head like a 2X4.\u00a0 You have been warned.<\/p>\n

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We ordered our favorite classics\u2026 a butifarra <\/em>sandwich, the ceviche<\/em> of the day and of course, lomo<\/em> saltado.<\/em><\/p>\n

I think a butifarra <\/em>may be the world\u2019s greatest sandwich.\u00a0 Seriously.<\/p>\n

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All that beige and bland color hides an absolute flavor and texture explosion waiting to be scarfed up.\u00a0 A good piece of bread or ciabatta is essential but that can be said about every great sandwich.\u00a0 The key to the excellence of a butifarra <\/em>is jamon del pais<\/em>.\u00a0 Pork leg is boiled with garlic, oil, aji amarillo<\/em> and rocoto <\/em>chilis and sliced thinly for the base of the sandwich.\u00a0 Lettuce, red pepper and salsa criolla<\/em> are strategically added.\u00a0 Sliced radish is optional. \u00a0Salsa Criolla<\/em> might just be that little bit of culinary magic that makes everything in Peru taste amazing.\u00a0 It\u2019s a super simple dice or julienne of onion, chilis and lime. The balance of crunch, salty savory porky goodness, onion tang and chili heat scrunched between two crispy pieces of bread is unbeatable.\u00a0 The best thing about butifarra<\/em> is that you can have one at every meal because they are served for breakfast, lunch and dinner\u2026 a trifecta of delicious possibility.<\/p>\n

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Our next course was a ceviche mixto<\/em>.\u00a0 Isolina prepares a classic ceviche<\/em> with all the traditional elements:\u00a0 choclo,<\/em> which is the large kernel corn specific to Peru, boiled sweet potatoes, crispy corn kernels and lenguado<\/em>, a local fish, lightly cooked in citrus juices called leche de tigre<\/em>.\u00a0 Their signature culinary twist is adding some lightly battered crispy calamari for an added savory flavor, fatty texture and warm temperature to contrast the high acid of the ceviche<\/em>.\u00a0 The combination of flavor is so special and so specific.\u00a0 It\u2019s a dish that screams terroir. <\/em>Cesar spoons up the leche de tigre<\/em> liquid remnants.\u00a0 If we were at his Mom\u2019s house, he’d pick up the dish and drink the last drops.<\/p>\n

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Our final dish was lomo saltado<\/em>, a little bit of genius and a fusion of Peruvian culture.\u00a0 Bits of beef are quickly stir-fried in a high heat wok with onion, tomato, aji amarillo<\/em> chile, vinegar and soy sauce fusing the Spanish and Asian cultures.\u00a0 French fries are added at the last minute.\u00a0 The dish is served steaming hot over white rice.\u00a0 The flavor is a gigantic mash up of umami, acid, heat and savory goodness.\u00a0 It\u2019s filling and takes the bite out of a chilly, damp evening.<\/p>\n

Itch scratched and fully sated, we strolled back to the hotel stopping to listen to music flooding the streets knowing we were about to have another great visit in Peru.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Also see: The Peru Diaries Part 2: My Favorite Restaurant, I Think\u2026..<\/a><\/p>\n

The Peru Diaries Part 3, A Pachamanca Day<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u5bf9\u4e0d\u8d77\u8fd9\u7bc7\u6587\u7ae0\u6ca1\u6709\u4e2d\u6587\u7248\uff0c\u5176\u4ed6\u8bed\u8a00\u7248\u672c\u8bf7\u89c1English<\/a>\u3002 For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.<\/p>\n

by Laura DePasquale, MS<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":74,"featured_media":5601,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":"","_wp_rev_ctl_limit":""},"categories":[122],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5591","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-restaurant-and-wine","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5591","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/74"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5591"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5591\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5601"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5591"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5591"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5591"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}