{"id":3809,"date":"2021-07-02T10:36:06","date_gmt":"2021-07-02T02:36:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/?p=3809"},"modified":"2021-07-14T18:08:23","modified_gmt":"2021-07-14T10:08:23","slug":"fresh-off-the-bottling-line-a-look-at-the-2018-bordeaux-wines-available-now","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/p\/3809.html","title":{"rendered":"\u65b0\u9c9c\u51fa\u7089\uff1a\u65b0\u88c5\u74f62018\u5e74\u6ce2\u5c14\u591a\u9996\u5ea6\u4eae\u76f8"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\u54c1\u9274\u8bb0\u5f55\u4e0e\u8bc4\u5206<\/p>\n

The Right bank<\/em><\/p>\n

Saint-\u00c9milion<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau La Gaffeli\u00e8re Saint-Emilion\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 95<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Troplong Mondot Saint-Emilion\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 94<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Clos Fourtet Saint-\u00c9milion\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

To my palate, the three best wines were Clos Fourtet, La Gaffeli\u00e8re and Troplong Mondot. The latter is always a dense, rich, earthy wine full of flavour. Clos Fourtet is its stylistic counterpoint: elegant, refined, and with more precise delineation if less material. Gaffeli\u00e8re was a terrific blend of the two styles.<\/p>\n

Pomerol<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Gazin Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau La Pointe Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 92<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Rouget Pomerol\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

Slim pickings compared with the St. \u00c9milion. Only eight wines were presented and none of the heavyweights with the possible exception of the Clinet which is tight as a drum currently. But Clinet never shows much when young! There were three very good wines including the surprisingly fine La Pointe. Interestingly, I recall the 2017 being much better than I expected and so the 2018 is a confirmation of sorts of this property\u2019s current happy state. This may have been the most agreeable wine of the afternoon. The Gazin was excellent as it has been for some time now and the much-improved Rouget was also very good indeed.<\/p>\n

The Left bank<\/em><\/p>\n

Margaux<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Brane-Cantenac Margaux<\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Cantenac Brown Margaux\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93 <\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Rauzan-S\u00e9gla Margaux\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 95+<\/strong><\/p>\n

Margaux as usual provided a wide range of styles and quality. There were three first rate wines: the two Cantenac wines and the outstanding Rauzan-S\u00e9gla. The latter had all the features one seeks in a top flight Margaux wine- perfume, lively mouth feel and complex undertones. The Brane-Cantenac is a big earthy wine with lots of presence. The Cantenac Brown was perhaps a little less intense but nonetheless, impressively full-bodied.<\/p>\n

Saint-Julien<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Langoa-Barton Saint-Julien\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau L\u00e9oville Barton Saint-Julien\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 95+<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau L\u00e9oville Poyferr\u00e9 Saint-Julien\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 95<\/strong><\/p>\n

Who does not love these wines? Very successful in 2018. Stand outs for me were the elegant, old world Langoa-Barton; the complex, sophisticated, majestic L\u00e9oville Barton; and its polar opposite, the juicy, fluid, sexy L\u00e9oville Poyferr\u00e9. These two wines between them define the ever-rewarding contrast between Old World and New World Bordeaux! My taste runs to the Barton interpretation. But that is just mine. Poyferr\u00e9\u2019s success is well merited. Gruaud Larose with its new wax capsule was just too sweet and soft to be true to itself, at least to my palate.<\/p>\n

Pauillac<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Clerc Milon Pauillac\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau D\u2019Armailhac Pauillac\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Pichon-Longueville Baron Pauillac\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 97+<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 96<\/strong><\/p>\n

A great success in 2018. Pauillac is the magical commune: three first growths, two super seconds, two fifth growths (Lynch Bages and Pontet-Canet) which sometimes rival the firsts, plus a half-dozen additional fifths now making outstanding wine. There is an aromatic spice and deep tobacco-inflected scent which is instantly recognizable to any experienced taster of Bordeaux. If I am allowed a comparison to Burgundy (both regions will forgive me I hope), Pauillacs combine the best of Vosne-Roman\u00e9e with the best of Gevrey-Chambertin: an unbeatable combination. The two Pichon wines, as different as day from night were outstanding, fully meriting their super-second growth status. The Baron is a gigantic wine with a multitude of dark berry flavors and a wealth of mineral tones but also a texture to keep the intense flavors in check. The gorgeous Lalande is so fragrant that the nose alone is worth the price of admission, as they say. As almost always is the case with this wine, I find there is a Saint-Julien-like appeal to the Lalande. The Fifth Growths d\u2019Armailhac and Clerc Milon (there is no dash in the wine\u2019s name, despite what you\u2019ll see pasted all over the web) were both seriously splendid wines. Especially the former was just lovely with a floral fragrance that was beguiling. By contrast, the Clerc Milon is a sturdier, spicier wine with excellent texture. Another wonderful pair of contrasting Pauillac wine styles.<\/p>\n

Saint-Est\u00e8phe<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Lafon-Rochet Saint-Est\u00e8phe\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Ph\u00e9lan S\u00e9gur Saint-Est\u00e8phe \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

It is always instructive and a bit of a shock to go from the glamorous, regal Pauillacs to the earthy, chewy Saint-Est\u00e8phe wines. As always, it is a matter of terroir, and in this specific case the soil content is most important — Saint-Est\u00e8phe is characterized by a slightly higher soil clay content than what is common on the left bank. And so it was that the heavy winter rains helped the Saint-Est\u00e8phe terroir retain water in the dry hot summer, such that the better situated estates of the Appellation did not suffer from the water stress that afflicted other Bordeaux areas. There were only a few Saint-Est\u00e8phe wines at the tasting. Two were memorable: the ever-improving Lafon-Rochet, with its impressively dense and long mouthfeel, and the stunning Ph\u00e9lan S\u00e9gur which has been making wine worthy of Grand Cru Class\u00e9s status for a decade. In fact, had I tasted the 2018 blind, I would have called it a very successful fourth growth: a powerful, intense wine whose earthiness is mitigated by deliciously ripe fruit.<\/p>\n

Pessac-L\u00e9ognan<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge Pessac-L\u00e9ognan\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 96+<\/strong><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Domaine de Chevalier Rouge Pessac-L\u00e9ognan\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 94<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pessac-L\u00e9ognan wines are never easy to taste when young. It takes time for the fruit, which is submerged in tannin and the dark earthy tones from the rocky soil to emerge. Eventually, the best Pessac-L\u00e9ognans exhibit an underlying nobility and structural solidity which can be most admirable. Without Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion resent in this tasting it is all but impossible to judge the success of this appellation in a very recent vintage. Nonetheless, I found there were two terrific wines and one attractive, albeit New World-styled, wine from Pessac-L\u00e9ognan in this vintage. The latter was the Pape Cl\u00e9ment, so beloved of those seeking fruit forward, juicy Bordeaux. In that mode, Pape Cl\u00e9ment is a real success. It is just not what I seek. Both Domaine de Chevalier Rouge and Smith Haut Lafitte were excellent. The former has become a truly first-rate wine in the past ten years or so. Medium-bodied with scents of wild mushrooms and an agreeably fluid palate, it ticks all the right boxes. Smith Haut Lafitte is just a block buster in the best sense. A mouthful and a half of dark, inky wine, infused with the flavours of small rocks and wild mushrooms; it will become a masterpiece in ten years or so.<\/p>\n

Sweet white wines<\/em><\/p>\n

Sauternes\/Barsac<\/u><\/p>\n

2018 Ch\u00e2teau Coutet Barsac\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 97<\/strong><\/p>\n

There was not much botrytis in 2018 but plenty of ripening sun! And so, for the most part, wines speak more of air-dried grapes than they do of the smoky complexity induced by noble rot. There was just one masterpiece: the glorious Ch\u00e2teau Coutet. Luscious on entry, with myriad scents of apricot pit, almonds and pear, the wine takes over the palate in a most enjoyable fashion. The long moderately tannic finish only added to the complexity and enjoyment of the wine.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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