{"id":3135,"date":"2021-05-12T10:00:01","date_gmt":"2021-05-12T02:00:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/?p=3135"},"modified":"2021-05-12T11:02:35","modified_gmt":"2021-05-12T03:02:35","slug":"cabernet-gernischt-marselan-and-petit-manseng-three-budding-chinese-wine-stars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/zh\/p\/3135.html","title":{"rendered":"\u86c7\u9f99\u73e0\u3001\u9a6c\u745f\u5170\u548c\u5c0f\u8292\u68ee\uff1a\u4e09\u9897\u6b63\u5728\u7efd\u653e\u7684\u4e2d\u56fd\u9152\u65b0\u661f"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n

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\"\"\u665a\u91c7\u5c0f\u8292\u68ee\u7684\u679c\u5b9e<\/em><\/p>\n

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\u5728\u5373\u5c06\u4e8e\u4e94\u6708\u5728\u4e0a\u6d77\u4e3e\u529e\u76842021\u4e2d\u56fd\u8461\u8404\u9152\u5cf0\u4f1a\u4e0a\uff0c\u6211\u5c06\u4e3e\u529e\u4e00\u573a\u5927\u5e08\u73ed\uff0c\u8bb2\u89e3\u4e2d\u56fd\u7684\u86c7\u9f99\u73e0\u3001\u9a6c\u745f\u5170\u548c\u5c0f\u8292\u68ee\uff0c\u5e76\u5c06\u8fd9\u4e09\u4e2a\u54c1\u79cd\u7684\u56fd\u4ea7\u9152\u4e0e\u4e16\u754c\u5404\u56fd\u8461\u8404\u9152\u8fdb\u884c\u6bd4\u8f83\u3002\u8fd9\u6b21\u54c1\u9274\u6240\u7528\u7684\u6240\u6709\u56fd\u4ea7\u9152\u6b3e\u90fd\u5df2\u5305\u542b\u5728\u6211\u7684\u62a5\u544a\u4e2d\uff0c\u5b83\u4eec\u662f\u6211\u8ba4\u4e3a\u4e2d\u56fd\u9152\u5e84\u6700\u5177\u6709\u4ee3\u8868\u6027\u548c\u53d1\u5c55\u6f5c\u529b\u7684\u4e00\u4e9b\u8461\u8404\u9152\u3002\u5b8c\u6574\u7684\u54c1\u8bc4\u62a5\u544a\u5c06\u5728\u4e0b\u4e2a\u6708\u53d1\u5e03\u4e8e\u8d4f\u6e90\u8461\u8404\u9152\u8bc4\u8bba\uff0c\u656c\u8bf7\u5173\u6ce8\u3002<\/p>\n

\u90e8\u5206\u54c1\u9274\u7b14\u8bb0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cabernet Gernischt<\/u><\/strong><\/p>\n

Chateau Nine Peaks 2019 Cabernet Gernischt Tsingtao Collection\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

Medium dark ruby-red, this is noticeably deeper ruby than the 2013, 2016 and 2018, all of which are characterized by a brighter red (and to my way of thinking, prettier) colour. Intensely floral (violet!) and spicy with very pure aromas and flavours of black and blue fruit complicated by aromatic herbs and an obvious mineral nuance. The finish is long, vibrant and suave, denoting very good fruit-acid-tannin balance. This was macerated for 25 days (longer than the 22 days of previous years), and at higher temperatures as well than was done previously. It was aged in one and two year used 225 litre barrels for 12 months (no new oak). The 2019 vintage was remarkable for being a very dry year, with water stress a real concern in some moments of the year (the Cabernet Gernischt was planted at Chateau Nine Peaks only in 2012); however, Cabernet Gernischt is better suited than Cabernet Sauvignon to dealing with rainy weather (its less compact bunch makes it less prone to rot-associated problems) but the trade-off is that too much rain makes the Gernischt even more vigorous than it already is. Apparently this vintage\u2019s much darker colour is the result of the drier year, but in fact it\u2019s not the only aspect in which this wine differs from all the other Cabernet Gernischt wines I tried at this estate. To date, the best Cabernet Gernischt wine made at the estate remains the very great 2013, but the 2019 is also a very good wine. Drinking window:\u00a0 2024-2032.<\/p>\n

Xige Estate 2017 Cabernet Gernischt Jade Dove\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 92<\/strong><\/p>\n

Vivid red. Bright red fruit, vanilla, violet, and cracked black pepper aromas on the perfumed nose. Enters very clean and smooth. Then similarly suave in the middle and on the long finish, this medium-bodied beauty stays light on its feet but also flavourful, with similar notes in the mouth to those on the nose. The aftertaste is pleasantly round and insidiously sweet coconutty note. The first vintage of this wine aged in US oak (30%), which explains the sweet coconut note (the US oak component has been lowered to 20% with the 2018 vintage). The Cabernet Gernischt was always harvested in mid-September because in China they want to pick it early so as to concentrate on the Cabernet Sauvignon still hanging in the vineyards, but the winemaker here correctly wanted to give Gernischt a chance to shine by delaying its harvest to October 10-15. A wise move, and well done. Further good news is the estate is planning to release in the near future a premium grade wine made with this variety. Drinking window: now-2030.<\/p>\n

Marselan<\/u><\/strong><\/p>\n

Domaine Zijing\/Amethyst yard 2018 Marselan Huailai\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 91<\/strong><\/p>\n

Luminous red. The initially subdued nose needs a little coaxing and air to showcase its sweetly ripe but fresh red fruit, herbal and spicy aromas. Repeating notes of herbs and sweet spices plus a syrupy sweetness to the red fruit flavours linger on the finish, which boasts a nice glycerol mouth feel. Not the last word in complexity but easy-going and smooth, this is a very pretty well-made wine that offers plenty of early appeal. Aged 13 months in French oak (about 27% new). 100% Marselan. Drinking window: 2022-2027.<\/p>\n

Domaine Franco-Chinois 2014 Marselan Reserve Huailai\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 92<\/strong><\/p>\n

Vivid red. Enticing aromas of fresh red berries, minerals and spicy herbs have a strong violet top note. Well-balanced and smooth on entry and in the middle, with clean, fresh red fruit, saline, and herbal elements persisting nicely on the suave aftertaste. A hint of freshly cracked black pepper and of grilled beef adds complexity. A very pretty wine that packs in lots of flavour and only 13.5% alcohol. This is ready to drink now but a year or so in the cellar will only add to its many charms. Drinking window: 2023-2030.<\/p>\n

Silver Heights 2017 Marselan Jin Shan Ningxia\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 93<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright, very pretty medium-dark red colour that is not needlessly deep. Fresh, fruity aromas of red berries, sweet spices, tobacco and minerals jump from the glass. More metallic, steely even, than when I last tasted this wine (about two months before) but vibrant, clean and pure, with lively red fruit flavours complemented by a strong spicy note on the long, suave back end. I really like this pretty red wine\u2019s up-front charm and juicy red fruit personality. You\u2019ll find that after the first sip you\u2019ll be immediately looking to have another, so just make sure your mother-in-law isn\u2019t anywhere in sight. Owner and winemaker Emma Gao apprenticed at Chateau Calon-S\u00e9gur in Saint-Est\u00e8phe and that training, along with her passion, drive and talent guarantee that if there is one Chinese estate that will be making world class wines ten years from now, this is one of those I am willing to bet on. Drinking window: now-2028.<\/p>\n

Petit Manseng<\/u><\/strong><\/p>\n

Domaine Franco-Chinois 2016 Petit Manseng Huailai\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 94<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright, medium-deep golden-yellow. Thick aromas and flavours of glazed kumquat, candied mango, canned pineapple, caramel, vanilla and cinnamon. Bright lemony and fresh on entry, then rich and dense in the mouth too, but with a vibrant mouth feel thanks to harmonious acidity providing noteworthy clarity and cut. Finishes long and suave with very good balanced sweetness. A thick dessert-styled wine that will match well not just to sweet desserts but also to pumpkin soups, roast chicken with mushrooms and aged cheeses. I guarantee that if you try similarly sweet wines with something other than desserts you\u2019ll be pleasantly surprised. Drinking window: now-2030<\/p>\n

Longting Vineyard 2019 Petit Manseng Late Harvest Longting Art Series\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 92<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bright pale golden-tinged yellow colour. Explosive aromas of green papaya, fresh citrus and honey on the captivating nose. Then very rich and luscious, but with very nice lift and acid-sugar balance (270 g\/L residual sugar and 6.6 g\/l total acidity) to the orange marmalade, candied lemon peel and fruit cocktail flavours that are long and clean. A true late harvest, the grapes were picked in early November, but despite the late picking date, this is neither especially thick nor dense, but rather stays pleasantly light on its feet and vivid. The wine was aged in stainless steel after winemaker Larsen tried partial oak aging in the 2016 and was unimpressed with the results. I also tasted the 2016 (and the 2018 too) Petit Manseng wines from this estate and I agree that this is the best of the bunch. Well done. Drinking window: 2022-2028.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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