{"id":10170,"date":"2024-03-19T15:21:22","date_gmt":"2024-03-19T07:21:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/?p=10170"},"modified":"2024-03-18T15:37:37","modified_gmt":"2024-03-18T07:37:37","slug":"restaurant-wine-review-ikoyi-in-london","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/p\/10170.html","title":{"rendered":"Restaurant & Wine Review: Ikoyi in London"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

Ikoyi<\/strong><\/p>\n

180 Strand<\/p>\n

London, UK<\/p>\n

Tel. +44 2035834660<\/p>\n

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The dishes<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Gola Pepper Broth<\/p>\n

Artichoke Caesar<\/p>\n

Drunken Crab & Fermented Rice<\/p>\n

Mussel and Saffron Cr\u00e8me Caramel<\/p>\n

Dover Sole, White Penja Pepper & Pomeloquat<\/p>\n

Pigeon Suya<\/p>\n

Turbot & Egusi Miso<\/p>\n

Native Breed Rib, Caramelised Chanterelles & Sauerkraut<\/p>\n

Smoked Jollof Rice<\/p>\n

Citrus Bab\u00e1 & Salted Pine<\/p>\n

Flower Sugar & Red Long Pepper<\/p>\n

Suya Ganache<\/p>\n

Verbena Lemon & Honey Berry<\/p>\n

The wines<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Jacques Perritaz 2019 Cidrerie du Volcain Poir\u00e9 Cidre Mousseux Brut\u00a0 \u00a0<\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/strong>91<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kelly Fox Wines 2021 Pinot Noir Mirabai Oregon\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a091<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Ikoyi is by all accounts the hardest dining reservation to get in London these days; and even those who don\u2019t agree are quick to concur that it is at the very least among the three toughest to latch on to. Such is the popularity of this dining spot\u2019s two Michelin star and number 35 of the World\u2019s 50 Best Restaurants list appeal, one that has its foundations of a heavy use of Sub-Saharan West African spices that have been sourced carefully and assiduously over the years. The place deserves all of the accolades thrown its way, but to be clear, it is an expensive proposition to dine here. The fixed menu will boast twelve or more small-sized dishes, and cost you a tidy \u00a3300+\/person and it is available for dinner only Monday through Friday and at Friday lunch. A smaller, less expensive menu (but still \u00a3200\/person) is available at lunch on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Prices are what they are, but more or less in one with the cost of many two-star eateries world-wide. And the highly imaginative, different from everything else you have ever eaten food really is interesting and memorable at Ikoyi. Young superchef Jeremy Chan boasts many different origins (among them British, Canadian and Chinese) and he weaves his cultural sensibilities rather effortlessly in each dish he creates.<\/p>\n

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The restuarnat was founded in 2017 by Chan and entrepreneur Ir\u00e9 Hassan-Odukale. Its first home was on St. James\u2019s street, but Ikoyi has since relocated to this modern industrial design-themed space on The Strand. It si very dark but also very intelligently illuminated, sleek and refined: you can tell there is a bit of Nordic\u00a0 influence at work here (Chan spent time at Noma) but said nordic influence is not overdone (and thank goodness, it isn\u2019t so in the food either). The name Ikoyi refers to an upscale neighbourhood of the Nigerian capital Lagos, and though the restaurant is known for digging deep into West African cooking culture, Chan is very quick to point out that Ikoyi is not a restaurant specializing in Western African cuisine but rather one that wants to draw on global cooking cultures allowing ingredients to shine at their best. British micro-seasonality plays a big role at Ikoyi, as do line-caught fish and sustainably-farmed and raised produce and game.<\/p>\n

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The dishes, all of which are visually gorgeous, are characterized by aromas and flavours that are at once deep and complex, but easy to like, though paying each a few minutes attention before swallowing allpws to better appreciate the different interplays between temperatures and textures. Most of all, the dishes exude outstanding balance and very likeable tastes. In other words, there\u2019s no need to pretend you like and enjoy eating ants or kelp at Ikoyi. On my most recent evening at Ikoyi, I found most dishes to be really be worthy of my taste buds and to stand out, as they really were delicious: to be clear, this is rare in almost all restaurants featuring many small bite-sized dishes where usually half are instantly forgettable. But not so at Ikoyi. I especially liked the jollof rice, hinting at a light smoky nuance but a real caramelized sweetness to it; it\u2019s more or less a signature of the restaurant so I guess I should not be surprised I liked it so. Saffron and mussels are also something Chan seems very at home with, and the cr\u00e8me caramel was both tasty and fun.<\/p>\n

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The wine list is not huge but well thought out, and there are cocktails and teas that are also selected to pair especially well with Ikoyi\u2019s unique food. I enjoyed a Jacques Perritaz Cidrerie du Volcain Poir\u00e9 Cidre Mousseux Brut <\/strong>made with eleven different types of, pear, partially fermented and non-pasteurized. Not especially sweet (it deserves its \u201cBrut\u201d category, but tastes even drier than that, leaving the mouth feeling clean and vibrant, but showcasing enough pear-derived creaminess to stand up to some of the more mellow, creamier dishes at Ikoyi in ways that a pure apple cider might not have. The Kelly Fox 2021 Pinot Noir Mirabai Oregon<\/strong> is very fresh and easy to drink, and though it is most definitely not the most concentarted wine you will ever drink, it\u2019s hard not to like it\u2019s approachable, easy-going style. Even better, this politely-styled wine does not overpower in any way the complex dishes coming out of the kitchen, always a good thing. Pretty aromas and flavours of red and blue fruit and subtle spices make for a fruit-forward joyous drinking experience.<\/p>\n

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Last but not least, I would be remiss if I did not mention the excellence and professionalism of the service, another outstanding aspect of Ikoyi (and happily elegantly-clad waiters, not people coming out with beards so long they are cleaning the floor with them and tattoos everywhere, individuals who might be real cool in a car repair shop or a Hell\u2019s Angels possee, but not in a fine dining restaurant). What can I say, except Ikoyi is the real fine dining deal. Very well done indeed. This is one place, cost aside, I would love to go back to go again and again. There aren\u2019t many I will say that about.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

by Ian D\u2019Agata<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":10174,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":"","_wp_rev_ctl_limit":""},"categories":[122],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10170","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-restaurant-and-wine","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10170","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10170"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10170\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10190,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10170\/revisions\/10190"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10174"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10170"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10170"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/terroirsense.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10170"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}